Review: Ringside Fish House

Ringside-Fish-House-Swordfish

In 2011, the Ringside Fish House opened downtown, on the second floor of the Fox Tower. The space had previously housed Ringside Steakhouse during their extensive remodel. It overlooks Director’s Park, and in the evening when the shades go up, it’s fun to watch the lights dance through the glass canopy, occasionally … [Read more...]

Review: Ned Ludd

Ned Ludd Portland - Ling Cod

The Luddites were 19th-century English textile artisans, who violently protested against the machinery introduced during the Industrial Revolution. Chef Jason French pays homage to their mascot, Ned Ludd, for whom the movement was named, and cooks everything from a wood-fired oven. No other source of heat is used; it's … [Read more...]

Review: Bar Avignon

Washington mussels, white wine, cream, tarragon

From the moment you walk into Bar Avignon the atmosphere wraps its arms around you. A long bar stretches the length of the restaurant, an easy place to feel comfortable if you are dining alone.  In the front, a small group of tables holds about 20, and a few raised booths make up the back. If you are in a group, a … [Read more...]

Review: Ate-Oh-Ate

ate-oh-ate

Nostalgia can do odd things to people. It can turn strong men weepy, and make normally sensible folks act with puzzlingly sentimental yearnings. The word “nostalgia” literally means a sickness for home, and when Ben Dyer set out to re-create the food (no one ever accused it of being a “cuisine”) of his native … [Read more...]

Review: Kinara Thai Bistro

Kinara Thai

It seems like there are hundreds of Thai restaurants in Portland, with little to differentiate them. Pasty noodles, dried out meat, and curry paste from a jar seem to be the norm. When I stumble across one that is actually good, I am always surprised. Kinara Thai Bistro, next to the Lincoln High athletic field in the … [Read more...]

Review: Karam Lebanese Restaurant

Karam Interior

[minor updates 1/11 - prices and a few dishes, grammar] Lebanon is a small country on the Eastern coast of the Mediterranean. The name is from Lubnan, the word for white, to describe the snow-covered peaks of the Mount Lebanon Range. Working from Egyptian hieroglyphs, early settlers in the area made a contribution … [Read more...]

Review: Miss Delta

sign

I've written before about the time I spent growing up in  Maypearl Texas, but I never mentioned the boiled chicken death march, and my plot to get even. In the 50's, dinner in the south was a family, sit-down supper. Grace was said, and whatever was fresh on "old Mr. Jackson's" farm next door was always added to our … [Read more...]

Review: Clyde Common

Clyde Common Restaurant Portland

Many restaurants are emblematic of certain eras in the cities they inhabit. Think of the well known Brasserie Lipp in Paris in the 1920's, when artists and writers milled about, drinking cheap red wine and eating hearty sausages and stews, while Ernest Hemingway jotted it all down on paper for posterity. Or the … [Read more...]