Review: Ringside Fish House

Ringside-Fish-House-Swordfish

In 2011, the Ringside Fish House opened downtown, on the second floor of the Fox Tower. The space had previously housed Ringside Steakhouse during their extensive remodel. It overlooks Director’s Park, and in the evening when the shades go up, … [Read more...]

Review: Ned Ludd

Ned Ludd Portland - Ling Cod

The Luddites were 19th-century English textile artisans, who violently protested against the machinery introduced during the Industrial Revolution. Chef Jason French pays homage to their mascot, Ned Ludd, for whom the movement was named, and … [Read more...]

Review: Olympic Provisions – Westside

olympic-provisions

Like impatient readers who sneak a look at the last page of a novel, I have a tendency to scan the dessert selections on a menu before checking out anything else. It’s probably because I want to gage my appetitive capacity to decide if I’ll save … [Read more...]

Review: June

Matsutake Mushrooms, Pear, Wild Rice

In every way June is the quintessential Portland restaurant--overstated understated. It boasts of having no sign in front, except for its obscurely etched name on an exterior piece of wood, looking like something a beaver might have carved if beavers … [Read more...]

Review: Beaker & Flask

cocktail-Beaker-thumb

Years ago, I was sitting at the Park Kitchen bar talking to their bartender Kevin Ludwig, while I was having dinner. He mentioned he was leaving PK, and opening his own place somewhere on the East side. As I recall, he planned on having the bar as … [Read more...]

Review: Thistle

thistle-thumb

I promised myself I wouldn’t allude in this review to Eric Bechard’s incident this spring involving a defiant defense of local animals, a stance provoked by a rival chef who, in his eyes, had heretically championed a Midwest over an Oregon pig. … [Read more...]

Review: Higgins

On the way home from dinner at Nel Centro one evening, I was bemoaning the fact that I hadn’t had a good meal since I reviewed Tabla. At that moment, we drove past Higgins, which looked completely full. It had been at least five years since my last … [Read more...]