“Herb Caen once noted that the Blue Fox served radicchio salad 35 years before it became trendy”
When I was young, my parents took the family to The Blue Fox restaurant in San Francisco. It’s long gone, but at the time it was considered one of the better restaurants in the United States. Looking back, I can’t imagine what they were thinking about taking children to a restaurant like that, but some 30-odd years later I still remember the meals or at least the important details. The restaurant advertised itself as “the restaurant across from the morgue. From the SFGate.com obituary of Mario Mondin,
“They came for the swank decor — gold-leaf walls, chandeliers and red carpet — as well as specialties like vitello tonnato, pheasant baked in clay and strawberries Armagnac. [columnist]Herb Caen once noted that the Blue Fox served radicchio salad 35 years before it became trendy.
I tried my first Frog Legs ($1.75), then Escargot Bourguignonne ($2), and expanded my experience with Caviar ($6 – 2 oz.) at the restaurant – important accomplishments for a ten-year-old. Even more surprising, I still remember the food from that evening and smile at the memory. [For some great photos, check out this link]. The fanciest dish at the Blue Fox was Island Duckling Flambe aux Cerises Noir ($13.50 for two).
Food is a lot like music: one bite and you are transported back to a particular moment from your past.
When a steaming plate of escargot is put under my nose I am catapulted to a night at The Blue Fox. When I see the waiter carrying the snails across the room, I know how they should smell and what the texture should be like. One rarely sees frog legs these days but when the thought of them passes through my mind I flashback to telling my father in a disappointed tone that they taste like chicken. “What? He exclaimed. I didn’t fly you 500 miles for you to tell me that! You aren’t trying!”
In M.F.K. Fisher’s book Serve it Forth1, she wrote that for many people it is “because they have never been taught to search for differentiation of flavor”.
When most people eat, they pay attention to the first bite or two and then continue their conversation without really noticing the food. If you’ve ever been lucky enough to eat at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, you know that Thomas Keller firmly believes that people quit tasting after the first couple of bites. For this reason, he serves meals with many small dishes. People in the know get the Chef’s Menu – his choices for the day. We are talking up to twelve courses here. This may sound daunting and it is, even when you take into account that many plates are only a few bites, some literally in a spoon nestled in a napkin, propped on a dish. Second mortgage applications are available at the door.
In the 60s my parents would leave us in the arms of the babysitter while they escaped to a nirvana of a restaurant called Papa DiCarlo’s.
Legend has it that Mr. DiCarlo, an Italian immigrant, was driving into Los Angeles with his wife looking for a place to live. Stuck in traffic, she finally declared, “Take the next exit. We are getting off this damn freeway!” As an intelligent man does when faced with such a demand, he pulled off the road, and that is where they stayed, opening a restaurant the likes of which Los Angeles had never seen before. It was also one of the best-kept secrets in the area.
Papa DiCarlo’s was ahead of its time. It was a small restaurant on West Manchester Avenue. There was no menu- you got what Papa decided to cook that night. Meals were multiple-hour affairs with many courses of fine Italian food coming in waves over the evening. It was secret and critics never reviewed it; you had to know someone to get in, and even then you had to be part of a group. With only one seating a night, it took months to get a reservation.
On my 12th birthday when it was my turn to go, I remember being delighted by the cloud of smells that poured from the kitchen every time the waiters came through the big swinging doors. All through the 14-course meal, Dad would remind me not just to eat, but to taste. If I talked too much he would hush me and point to the food. That was the first place I ever had Tuscan-style pork, and when traveling through Italy years later, I still compared similar dishes to that experience. I remember everything from the sommelier with his oh-so-courant silver cup, to the many bruschettas, my first veal, and the funny vibrating belt exercise machines that guests would get up and use halfway through the meal to shake things down and make more room. Papa DiCarlo’s was the beginning of my real education about food. From an LA Times mention in 1964 –
…there were the most delicious pickled grapes you ever tasted. Then came a meat broth in which floated a giant ravioli. The hors d’oeuvres consisted of mashed spinach on toast, tomato siices smothered in mozzarella cheese, and ceci beans. Somewere in there were succulent slices of pizza bread. Then came artichoke halves laced with garlic oil and served with a melted cheese sauce that had a mild bite. Then, shelled-shaped pasta. Then, small lobster tails blanketed with a sensational raisin sauce. Then, stuffed baked clams served in the shell. Then, sauteed real slices with snapping fresh green beans. After intermission and a fresh air stroll in the patio, there are three kinds of sherbet pineapple, peach end (get this!) licorice.
By the way, the meal cost for four was $30.
These days when my friends introduce me to new people, the conversation most often includes something to the effect of, “He ruined me for cheap food! Before I met him I could have chicken nuggets at McDonald’s. Now I am picky about everything.” That makes me feel good. I love sharing the experience of a good meal.
Most of you who are reading this are passionate about food. You know how to taste, to pay attention to the lingering finish of a bite, to the texture and consistency of the food. Lead the blind from the darkness and share your knowledge. Teach your children how to behave and take them to restaurants. Inspire your family, your friends, and everyone that will listen. Promote great restaurants. You’ll leave a heritage of love and memories that only sitting around a table groaning with food will bring.
My Dad died many years ago but left a legacy in what he taught his family and friends about food and wine. I like to think that our love of food is infectious, that after we are gone people we crossed paths with in our lives will think back to meals we had together, a smile crossing their faces, a memory crossing their palate.
1Pity the Blind in Palate was a wonderful essay written by M.F. K. Fisher in Serve it Forth, 1937. She was one of the greatest food writers of our time and is still a wonderful read.
Brian says
PFD:
Evidently you and your family were in the minority of patrons deeply focused on taste at the Blue Fox. I say this because when you mentioned the restaurant the first thing that came to my mind was the Foldger’s Coffee commercial from the 70’s where they “secretly switched the brewed coffee with Foldger’s Flavor Crystals at the world famous Blue Fox restaurant in San Francisco” the commercial then went on to feature hidden camera testimonials from customers claiming it was the “best coffee they had ever tasted”.
Our household carried a strong bias towards MJB because, if memory serves me, my mother claimed that it was prepared in the NW and therefore was “fresher” than the others. But my great aunt, Ruth, who lived with us, was a dedicated Foldgers Flavor Crystal consumer every afternoon at 3.30 with a cookie. As I began my experiments with caffeine delivery vehicles I remember being influenced by the upscale patrons featured on the “world famous Blue Fox restaurant” commercial. I was transitioning from cartoons on TV in the morning to the newspaper and thought it would compliment my growing sophistication to accompany this ritual with an adult beverage like coffee.
I had to decide between the percolator MJB my mom and dad swore by, or the highly touted flavor crystals. I sided with the gourmands of the Blue Fox and began mixing up the Foldger’s instant as my coffee of choice.
I just as quickly decided that I didn’t like coffee. The musty flat taste of the instant coffee baffled me. Was this an acquired taste? Compared to the MJB, which I found to be bitter and unpalatable, the Foldgers instant had bizarre artificial flavors that smacked of chemicals and was just plain bad. I rejected both and began a routine of eating Space Food Sticks chased with hot vanilla instant breakfast. My wasted food youth. I also abandoned the paper and returned to cartoons.
It’s a different world now. Foldger’s and frog legs may be passé, but these legacies still color how we view and discern the tastes we encounter today. Great memories as well.
I really enjoyed this piece as I do the entire site.
Keep up the great work.
Brian
FoodDude says
Well by the 70’s the restaurant had changed hands and gone seriously downhill. I went in the early 60’s. Of course what passed for “gourmet” in those days would be nothing special now. Ingredients and technique have changed much since then.
Glad you liked it!
Dori Courtney says
My great uncle Joe Pinoni of Tuscany and Aunt Ellen were the founders and owners of The Blue Fox
PDX Food Dude says
I have lots of great memories from there, Dori
daisy ohleyer says
That’s funny, I was taught my great grandfather from Asti owned it and then gave it to his son, my grandfather Gianni Fassio
Christine says
Was there a big grab club nearby? I ask because we went there in probably 1964z. It was very swank and I had lamb chops! After dinner we were walking around and saw some men wearing women’s gowns and big wigs. I was 14 and from Oklahoma so of course I had Questions! I thought mom was going to faint! A cab magically appeared and we were whisked away to the safety of the Fairmount hotel! I still have the menu in a little box of stuff I kept over the years. My dad greatly appreciated fine dining and I was so fortunate to have eaten in many wonderful restaurants when we went on family vacations.
Ross Pullen says
Food Dude! I loved this post that I came across in a google reference to the Blue Fox in SF. It’s original location is where Alfred’s Steak House moved in the late nineties. My roommate and I could see Alfred’s @ 886 Broadway at the top of the tunnel from our apartment at Pacific and Taylor.I dearly loved all of those now gone icons of dining and good food that were in San Francisco in those days.
However, what really caught my eye was your 12 th birthday story at PAPA Di CARLO’S in LA. (I grew up there and in SD). I won’t take all the time to explain here, but you would get a real kick out of my reference point for that kind of food experience from the 70’S in SF. I also know you’d be interested in a reference for a similar type place for 2013 in the Northwest.
Love your stories. They give me fodder and impetus for my blog ….. Thanks.
Food Dude says
Thanks for the comment! I used to do a lot of this type of writing – https://portlandfoodanddrink.com/foodwriting/memories/
Good memories of Blue Fox and Papa di Carlos!
Ross Pullen says
I just wanted you to know what a kick I got out of the connections!
Ross
Herb Dow says
Thank you for writing this. I was telling my co-workers about this great restaurant we ate at in the 60s. Found your article on Google. It was an amazing place. I remember the dinner started with wine soaked grapes ( a real surprise when you pop a few in your mouth without knowing) and of course the exercise belt in the back yard or front if you were eating in the house. Never had another dinner like that 22 courses as i remember.
Thanks again for the memories
Scott Freutel says
PdiC was my first introduction to superb food. After the Watts riots it moved to a beach town – Redondo? Hermosa? – and soon closed. I was privileged to dine at the original 7 or 8 times and recall nary a negative experience…. I was a poor college student and would spend a week’s wages taking dates here….forgot the girls but cannot get the place out of my memory!
Cristina Fassio says
Thanks for this blog post. I did a quick Google search for the Fox and your article popped up. My grandfather Piero Fassio and his partner Mario Mondine where the owners of the Blue Fox until it was passed on to my father in 1987. My grandfather died in 1976 and the restaurant did have its problems then because it was too big for 1 partner to run. Thank you for havig such great memories. I grew up going there and even though we were kids, wasn’t it fantastic when they lifted the silver domes from the plates? ALMOST LIKE MAGIC.
PDX Food Dude says
Oh yes, I’d forgotten about that. The only place I can remember experiencing it. Thanks for the note!
Lisa Monciardini says
I love this article. My grandfather “papa” was Papa di Carlo. Carlo D’Arelli. My dad worked in his restaurant and we grew up hearing stories of the great 14 course meal. I loved him dearly and miss him every day.
PDX Food Dude says
Thank you for writing. I still miss the restaurant!
Derek BEVERLY says
As a young boy, I grew up knowing Mario Picollo, once owner/operator of the Blue Fox Restaurant in SF. He had a mountain house in Sierra City, CA., where the once legendary chef prepared meals like no other. I recall have water cress salad, followed by “paste” (pasta with sweet basil, pine nuts and olive oil), prime rib, trout almandine, fresh veggies from his garden, followed by Cafe Diablo (for my parents) and Italian Zabaglione All the while listening to him and my mom singing Italian songs by Mario Lanza. His nephew, Steve Canzianni (deceased) and I were best of friends, we fished for trout nearly every day..
PDX Food Dude says
Thanks for the story. I was just thinking about The Blue Fox a few days ago.
Greg says
With the recent passing of Yvette Mimieux, somehow the memory of seeing her and Darryl Zanuck and friends at a nearby table at the Blue Fox, sometime around the early or mid 1960’s. Never had I seen such a beautiful, classy woman. Also think it was the first time tortellinis were tasted. I was in my early 20’s taken to the restaurant by a man from LA. Amazing how the memories can surface.
PDX Food Dude says
Many of my memories are tied to food. I can see something on a menu and flash back to someone I was with at a dinner 30 years ago. Thanks for the comment!
Jon Riseman says
You mentioned Papa DiCarlo’s…
He is my Great Grandfather! I really enjoyed this. Thanks.
PDX Food Dude says
You are welcome! I loved his restaurant.
John Byers says
My Dad, Frank M. Byers and his wife Virginia Byers took me (PhD student Entomology UC Berkeley) about 1975-1978 were walking in San Francisco and came across the Blue Fox restaurant. My Dad said lets go in and have dinner (it was about 5:00 PM) to me my wife Judi and my Mom. So we went in and were seated and menus were provided. We were middle class and the prices were very high. My Dad looked like he could pay but was getting worried as it looked like the 4 of us would cost him $400. So after a few minutes and when the waiter went to the kitchen, I said its too expensive lets leave. We then left hurridly and out the door to the bright sun. For many years we joked about the most expensive restaurant that we escaped from. I’m 75 now in 2024 and in todays value I guess it would have cost us closer to $1000.
PDX Food Dude says
That is a great story. Thanks!