There are a few address in Portland, that are notorious for failed restaurants. Think the old Zefiro space. A reader asks, “Do you believe that a space’s history (particularly if it has a so called ‘hex’ or has been home to many failed ventures) can be overcome by a talented chef and/or great food? Are Portlander’s capable of forgiving a space or neighborhood its misgivings?” What do you all think? The Zefiro space has incredible foot and auto traffic, yet no one else has managed to make a go of it. On the other hand, I’m told there were 3-4 restaurants that failed in the Higgins space before its current incarnation. I thought I’d post the question here, and let you all ponder it.
When Kevin Ludwig, bartender at Park Kitchen won our poll for Best Bartender, someone mentioned he was planning on leaving his current job and opening his own place. I’ve been sitting on this news for a while, but now that it is out in the open, I can confirm that it is true. Kevin is planning on leaving Park Kitchen sometime next summer, to open his own place, probably in North or NE Portland, which will be called Beaker & Flask.
Problems at clarklewis restaurant? More rumors on the street: Morgan Brownlow and David Howit, the owner of clarklewis
have been battling over the removal of Morgan’s name from clarklewis, its website, and the press materials. Sounds like things are getting nasty. I’m also hearing lots of murmurs about the restaurant itself. I’ll try to swing by in the next few weeks for dinner, and will update my review not too far down the road. Speaking of Morgan, a little bird tells me that he may be collaborating on some events in Seattle with “someone he may have been involved with here“. Hmm… Wink wink, nudge nudge. Need I say more?
One little tidbit I came across in the Oregonian’s Explore The Pearl insert last week. They had a quick blurb about Ten 01, saying that the staff “may not pirouette to tables, but they have received extensive training in dance and etiquette to enhance their movement, manners and professionalism”. What about the chefs?
Frankly, I find the whole idea hard to believe.
Feijoia says
Thanks FD, I’ve kept tabs on your site for ages, but I’ve been living abroad for the past year and really appreciate your take on the Portland food world. The combination of your obvious food knowledge combined with a fair outlook and talented writing … I do appreciate your info, makes me nastalgic and excited about what I will come home to!
Keep it up, you seem to have plenty of fans.
swonder says
Last time I looked, all the ghosties and creepies had left the day after Halloween, so the curse deal probably won’t carry much water. But some locations are definately not ideal retail/restaurant canditates. The 21st/Glisan spot is a good example of less than satisfactory. The traffic pattern on Glisan makes that 21st building a little problematic. Glisan is a westbound arterial and handles a ton of traffic. Because the driver sits on the left side of the car and the location is on the right side of the intersection before the stoplight, it is difficult to recognize for motorists flying past through the intersection. In addition, if a driver is turning right on to 21st (north), there is usually so much activity with other cars, busses and pedestrians (grade school nearby) it is necessary to pay close attention which causes motorists to ignore the building on the right. if one turns left, then all visibility is lost. Although the building is attractive enough and has a decent window line, it is not distinctive or well signed. (Of course some smart design type could fix that.)
As far as cursed goes, the fact that Zefiro prospered there for many years puts the lie to any bad juju. In my memory, before Zefiro there was one successful operation, Moreno’s Mexico, and one unsuccessful restaurant, Koeng Kee Kitchen. Operators subsequent to Zefiro have had a extra challenge: overcoming the legacy of Chris and Bruce, media darlings that they were (are?). Fact is that Zefiro did function at a high level for a long time. Not that it didn’t have its difficult times. So, until a competent operator figures out that the neighborhood has changed, the competition has changed (and Zefiro’s customers’ memories have held frozen) by actually changing the way the space functions (blow out a wall or two, relocate the bar, lower the menu price point, adjust operating hours, etc.) money will continue to flow directly down the rathole. Weird location-yes, a little. Jinxed-no way, just needs someone who is not afraid to spend some money to make the space different.
Food Dude says
Thanks, Luca. I agree.
Welcome Feijoia. Isn’t that the latin name for guava?
Luca says
You know, despite my first-hand experience at it, I absolutely believe not.
Look elsewhere than superstition: there are rational reasons why a restaurant fails. No one ever takes the time to really think about it, yet it would provide some insight on the life of a restaurant as an enterprise as well as on the reality of doing business in Portland. That’s always good learning. ;)
Del says
I have worked in the space that was zefiro when it was zinc bistro, and I believe that the space is not cursed. Le Pigeon opened in coleens old space and is on pace to be restaurant of the year. The chef, the food and the service will dictate how many people visit a location. Look at clarklewis. Great restaurants have the power to transform neighborhoods, bad restaurants will fail regardless of location.
Quick note about ten 01, it is true that the servers received dance training before they opened, but at the pace they are going they will only have a handful of the opening crew left in a couple of days. The place is losing money hand over fist because the chefs cant cook. They are young, inexperienced and they just fired all their cooks. If you have had a good experience there, I would not go back because all the talent has left.
hoonan says
I know that when the French Laundry was ran by Laura Cunningham, she had the front of house staff take dance lessons in order to make them more graceful and elegant when approaching tables. She also used this training method with the staff at Per Se.
Tim L says
Yes, Food Dude. Feijoa sellowiana is a pineapple guava. I met my first and only feijoas while touring the north island of New Zealand in the 1980’s. Delicious tasting. Simply cut in half and work off the contents inside. The posting title by Luca brought back fond memories.
Food Dude says
Thanks Tim. I had a feijoa sellowiana in the back yard when I was a kid. Ate them all the time. You brought back memories.
fuyuk says
feijoas, um, excellent, they make killer ice cream as well. as far as old zefiro space goes, it does need some competent restaurant operator to make it go. i agree that it needs to be reconfigured. i did eat at the old zefiro one time and had their famous tuscan white bean soup. must have been a short day on groceries, i counted 3 beans in the soup! oh, well. rest of the meal was not that memorable sorry to say. so many places and so much stuff going on, who gives a rip about morgan and somebody, nudge, nudge, wink, wink in Seattle? watch for the other projects that adam and the guys from tabla are trying to work at present. nothing like spreading yourself too thin in the restaurant biz. sure would be great for someone to front you several million $ (according to comments on this website about the amount of clams piled into that place, rent has to be $$$$$$$)and then flush it down the drain, what fun! restaurant coasting on it’s rep? i would say genoa for sure and it will run out of gas sooner or later. wildwood, for sure, corey no longer has any ownership interest and is primarily a paid functionary. might as well be working for applebees’s, olive garden or red lobster, but he still has some say over the menu so guess he can hang on for while longer until the next project comes along. higgins, suprising as i have never had a bad meal there. service is always great for me and i know what to order. granted, i don’t eat there frequently, but enough to know that they still have a good rep. horsebrass rocks, however you need to burn your clothes upon leaving, smokiest place on the planet! and you can get a decent game of darts.
Feijoia says
The feijoia is related to the guava, but I find it to be quite unique to itself. The texture has a slightly mealy character sort of like a pear. The flesh is quite intensely flavoured, a bit tropical and sweet but also herbaceous/prickly/sour. It does make great ice creams and crumbles. Hopefully they’ll come back in season before I leave.
Food Dude says
I like Zell’s for the staff, and the slightly grungy old building. The only thing I eat there are pancakes or waffles – love the fact that they put cornmeal in them, and their lemon-yogurt pancakes are great.
I love Portland on snow days, because here downtown where everyone is walking, there is a smile on everybody’s face. Of course, tomorrow they’ll all be pissed ;)
Flask Mama says
What! Never been to the Horse’s Ass! I love this place. True, don’t wear any clothes that you are particularly fond of because you will smell like a walking ashtray when you leave. Bangers and mash! Not fancy, but great stick to your ribs food on those cold winter nights. The Ploughman’s Lunch is great too. And, they have great hard cider on tap and know how to make a good black ‘n’ tan.
You would be a Zell’s guy. I have to say, I am partial to their eggs benedict, but J&M always makes me feel so comfortable . . . They must have the mellowest waitress on the planet. I swear, I have never seen her flustered.
Locations – if it is inherently a bad location, that is not a curse, just a really big hurdle to jump. A great location doesn’t mean a great success. Many places bank on that and then never rise above mediocrity.
Can someone send some of those people who want to buy/open a bakery to Yamhill County! Please!
Well Seasoned says
I agree with fuyuk re: Higgins. I’d be interested in hearing some details from the folks who rated Higgins as “coasting”: did you have bad food/service? I’ve never had anything but delicious food and pleasant, skillful service (though, to be fair, there is one waiter who does give me the creeps). I’ve never had a disappointing meal in either the dining room or the bar.
becky says
I remember a restaurant space in San Jose that was “cursed.” Finally, a Blockbuster opened in the space and has been there for the past 10 years.
So, Maybe the Zefiro/Zinc/Whatever space is meant to be another outpost of the Videorama empire.
troufood says
I can’t believe that Genoa is a contender for restaurants resting on their laurels. The last five times I’ve been there, each time has been excellent, and any weakness didn’t make anything sink to a level of mediocrity. The rigor the kitchen demands of its cooks makes it perform above the norm consistently. In the absence of that rigor you get ‘whatever, and Genoa never serves ‘whatever.’
10583MOB says
So. Higgins resting on its laurels? Thats a tough one. Gregg got tired of doing rack of lamb, etc ( remember he put the Heathman on the map ) Higgins is his restaurant with his rules. Good food ( organic, sustainable, etc ) but it is what he likes to eat. Yeah he throws around steak, and has a “static burger” on the menu. But one cant say the menu is stale at Higgins. ( P.S. Cod has been on the menu at Paleys for two years ) Yes you can go to Higgins and not like all the choices this month. But the food is good, and solid. Gregg isnt cooking for any ones approval, he just puts in a lot of hard work. As for the staff, I believe there are 8 original staff from opening day ( thats pretty good for our town ) – Solid wine list, great beers, great bar….Now Teno1 is a good try, but they hit and miss. The sliders are good, but the service is spotty, and the food costs and labor costs must be large. But it is a pretty space and at least they are trying. But why start so big? I know they have Gerding $$$ behind them, but the menu is too ambitious for that crew. The FOH tries hard, but there are a lot of boddies….that is why the check average is so high. To cover the costs…I have been to Ten01 four times, and hte first was great, I have had problems the past three visits ( cold baked beans, slow service, slow bar service, weird food coming out of the kitchen (no lardons in the frisee salad, etc ) for the cost of the meals I would have been happier at either Higgins, Paleys , or Castagna.
10583MOB says
Is the Zefiero space “cursed?” Why hasnt anybody except Bruce Carey made a “living ” out of the space? Here are a couple of ideas.
#1 When Bruce, Chris & Monique took the space over many, many moons ago, 23rd was just really “gentrifying” the rent was probably more reasonable then todays rent. #2 Zefiero was a pioneer, with good quality food and service ( its only competition or peers were The Heathman ( Gregg Higgins ) , L’Auberge, and Genoa ( Amanda Heard ) . Otherwise PDX was and is still about Jakes/McCormick&Schmicks (gross) . #3 The Goodman Family ( City Center Parking fame) own the space. That means they currently want a lot of money in rent, and will do very little in landlord improvements.
I dont believe the space is cursed- they ( The Goodmans ) have to find a owner/operator who will put in the sweat and love all good restaurants must have to succeed. If the food is good, they will come….Look at Higgins, Castagna, Wongs Kitchen, as examples. The Higgins space used to be Broadway review, and Abernathys in its past lives ( just to name a few ) Its landlord ( The Oregon Historical Society under the leadership of Chet Orloff wanted a “quality” tenant to fill the space that is now Higgins. The History Society worked with Gregg and Paul during Higgins first three years of its life. The Goodmans should take notice of this. I heard a rumor that years ago, that Corey Schriber tried to lease the old Zefiero spot, but couldnt reach terms with the Goodmans. Corey then invested in his defunct grocery store, and the curse questions remain on a beautiful space on 23rd….( Corey was thinking of a higher scale restaurant – NW version of Cyprus Club for the space….may just work? )
New Haven Pizza says
I couldn’t help but comment on your comment about the small margins in the universe of 2-300 votes.
Let’s not forget the 2000 Presidential Election. Same margins. 400,000 TIMES more votes.
I still have a bad taste in my mouth. And the service has been horrible.