Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon, has been named one of the
Unfortunately, this will be overshadowed by an article called “A Wannabe-Insider’s Guide to Seattle’s Outsider Chefs“, by the chef Portlander’s sent running for the hills, Michael
Hemorrhoid Hebberoy. It sounds like he’s still a bit bitter.
What I loved about Portland was the unabashed amateurism. The farmers were learning how to farm, the winemakers learning how to ferment, the cooks learning how to cook (many chefs even lying about their pedigrees and staying up late to work on their supposed three-star skills). Certainly all of us in the food industry were trying to figure out what it meant to run a restaurant. To Seattleites, iconoclastic Portland establishments like Navarre, Ken’s Artisan Bakery and Park Kitchen must have seemed like they existed in some distant land, where rent was affordable and charming vintage storefronts were in endless supply.
I am no stranger to the DIY ethic of Portland, having spent nearly a decade building a culinary big top that contained such acclaimed places as Clarklewis, Gotham Bldg Tavern and Family Supper—only to watch much of the circus end in lawsuits, at least one restaurant closure and a bitter divorce.
Ended in lawsuits because he had no business acumen and failed to do even the most basic planning from restaurant 101. I guess this is what happens when a dishwasher suddenly owns a restaurant, and doesn’t realize one shouldn’t believe their own press. Sadly, it appears he hasn’t taken these lessons with him to Seattle. I wonder what his next town will be.
You can read the article here.