There are shops that sell chocolate and then there is the Cacao chocolate shop in Portland. The latter can inspire even the most hardened and cynical among us.
When we first heard about the Cacao chocolate shops, it clearly sounded like it was worth our attention. Serious enough to warrant not one, but two reporters for further journalistic investigation. That’s when Joanna Miller entered the scene. A chocolate lover and recipe tester for the Paris based cookbook author David Lebovitz and an enthusiastic food blogger herself, the woman knows good chocolate. After one quick phone call with the simple words “new chocolate shop, hurry,” we hauled our derrieres downtown, driven by a pre-Perestroika fear that the shelves might be swept clean before our arrival.
Cacao (pronounced Ka-Cow) is like no other chocolate shop in town. Pushing our way through the unassuming entrance, we were rendered momentarily breathless. Cacao chocolate looks more like a boutique in Paris than a store located just off of West Burnside Street. The space’s elegance lies in its simplicity and earthiness, allowing the beautifully packaged products to be showcased as the central design element. It is the chocolate, after all, that is the true star and raison d’etre of this establishment. Cacao is understated and comfortable, with high ceilings, a long curving marble-topped counter, and an earthy and cocoa brown-themed decor. A grouping of café tables next to the window, beckon customers to linger with a hot beverage and their purchases before rushing out the door. Yes, this is chocolate that deserves some quality time.
And what about the chocolate?
The amount and variety of chocolate at Cacao is impressive. It includes long walls of tall shelves filled with chocolates, two large display tables stacked high with a large variety of bars, and a museum-quality display case of carefully chosen individual mendiants, truffles, and other tasty chocolate-covered bites. While Cacao does stock a variety of brands that one may find in other stores around town, we also saw many names that have yet to show up in Portland – ones that our friends still fill their suitcases with upon return trips from Europe and New York. In other words, you will not find these chocolates in the candy aisle of your local grocery store, or even any of Portland’s best gourmet shops. Portland has many chocolatiers, and Cacao carries the best: Craque Candied Cacao, Alma Chocolates, Brass Bar, Hedgehog of the Fog, and more. The selection also includes their house-made drinking chocolates available in jars to take home. The Wall Street Journal called it “knockout drinking chocolate”. Both their 100% Pure Dark Drinking Chocolate and lighter Premium Drinking Chocolate are available for purchase. Take it home and warm carefully with milk or cream. Romance in a cup.
By now, we were swooning, and just when we think it can’t get any better, we turn around to hear these seductive words:
“Would you like to try a sample of our drinking chocolate?”
Cacao chocolate shops in Portland draw a clear distinction between hot chocolate and drinking chocolate. For the uninitiated, drinking chocolate is an ancient, heady, and deliciously thick concoction, generally served in small portion sizes, for a little goes a long way. These are the drinking chocolates that are most typically served in Barcelona, Belgium, and other parts of the old world; an intense, deep, and very adult drink. Even if you are someone who does not usually get excited about this sort of thing, do not skip this special treat. Joanna, for example, had convinced herself that she was a chocolate eater, not drinker, claiming, “I want the flavor to linger, and when it’s liquid, the experience is just too rushed!” But there is nothing Nestle’s-Quick about this drink. It lingers in the best way possible. Long after the velvety-smooth richness finally and regrettably left our palates, the mere memory of the moment made us smile.
Cacao’s hot chocolates are also quite pleasing, and far above average. These are made with a 50% milk to chocolate ratio which is just the right amount of punch without being too heavy. They are lightly frothed and come in either a dark 72% or a lighter 65% cacao variety. These are the perfect reviving agents for a brisk autumn day.
As we drank from the tiny cups filled with the warm oozing liquid, elation washed over us, and we were in orbit. An extraordinary chocolate buzz had set in. We were firing-off questions with a hyperactive, sugar and caffeine-induced fervor, oohing and ahhing over the glass-covered displays, and whispering and giggling to each other like we were teenagers on a class field trip.
One of the owners, Jesse Mannis, took it all in stride, placating us with more chocolate samples, and patiently answering all of our questions. Without a trace of condescension or ennui, he appeared delighted and amused at our enthusiasm; this is clearly a man who has followed one of his life’s greatest passions. We also suspect that he may be accustomed to the light-headed and woozy effect that Cacao has on otherwise rational and calm adults.
Jesse, who cut his chops at Fran’s chocolates for over 10 years, and business partner Aubrey Lindley, opened Cacao Chocolate in September 2006. They are thrilled at their location, rave about wonderful people they have met in Portland, and possess a unique welcoming esprit that makes this a warm, comfortable, and delightful atmosphere. Together, they have made Cacao a food and gift destination for Portlanders. We think it is a fantastic spot for a rendezvous, platonic and romantic alike, and is a refreshing change from the typical routine for the office worker’s mid-morning or afternoon coffee break.
The London Telegraph asked, “Does Portland have the best chocolate shop in the world?” There are so many things that the Cacao chocolate shops do right, it is hard to list them all. Despite the fact that these are expensive chocolates, anyone with a bit of extra pocket change can find something satisfying and delicious to buy. There are tablets of all kinds that are just the right size to satisfy a craving; fine chocolate-covered and nut-sprinkled toffees for just under two dollars and unsuspectingly good Celtic salted butter caramels displayed next to the register. In their subtle packaging, these could be easy to miss, but do yourself a favor and don’t pass them up. They are addictive.
- Phone: 503-241-0656. Heathman: 403-274-9510
- Location: 414 SW 13th Ave, Portland, 97205 Map.
By Lizzy Caston and Joanna Miller – Originally posted on 10/2006, but rewritten and new photos 9/16
mczlaw says
Was in last week. This is the real deal. It is to the walk in trade what Chocosphere is to internet/wholesale buying. The salon atmosphere is very attractive. Reminded me of Cocoa Bella in SF.
We chatted with Aubrey–clearly a drooling podhead ;-). It will be fun to see how Cacao evolves. It will also be interesting to see how it endures the construction of a 21-story building next door.
–mcz
Food Dude says
Um, I meant to say giddy as a cub scout. This is the type of thing that happens after too much chocolate.
Debbie P says
Wow! I got a headrush just from reading the review. Can’t wait to actually go and taste the chocolates. Thanks!
Mary Ann says
Great article ! I am saving my money to fly to Portland to visit the chocolate shop and the speciality shop that sells salts that I had never heard of before reading the article written by Cuisine Bonne Femme.
Vicki says
On the strength of the above review, and despite the fact that I’m diabetic and probably shouldn’t eat/drink such things, I popped in yesterday afternoon and ordered a cup of their European hot chocolate. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. All I can say is, it’s a good thing I don’t live too nearby or I’d be tempted to have a cup at least once a day, which would surely bankrupt me quickly at $4 a pop. Still, it’s worth every single penny. I didn’t even want a sip of water afterwards, just wanted to keep the mouth feel of that incredibly thick, smooth, not-too-sweet dark chocolate there for another few hours.
Food Dude says
I went by there yesterday. That drinking chocolate on a rainy day was just perfect. They do carry some lower end chocolates, but I sat there and wondered if they would manage to sell enough to pay the rent. Let’s hope so!
ker says
I love Cacao.
Correction: I love Cacao. The atmosphere is amazing, the selection is mind-boggling, the chocolate drinks will change your life.
Aubrey is an absolute darling – he could sense my passion for chocolate and gave me free samples. He also told me that they are working on tasting notes for all the chocolates that they will have out sometime in the near future.
My only complaint – and it is a small one – is that they seem just a bit too elitist in their selection. Yes, it’s amazing chocolate, but they just seem to take themselves a bit too seriously at times. I’d like to see them have a little more fun – maybe carry some stuff that’s a little less chichi and a little more different.
That said, the only reason I’m not in there every day is that my wallet can’t take the expense and my heart can’t take the caffiene…
Suds Sister says
My wish for the place is that they were open a bit later in the evenings.
extramsg says
When I talked to them, they said they want to be open later. They get a lot of requests for it. I think it’s a matter of being able to hire someone. For some reason they don’t want to work 14 hour days.
Flask Mama says
I went to Cacao on Saturday largely based on everyone’s effusive reviews. I was not dissapointed. The guys were friendly and happy to talk shop, the dark drinking chocolate was great: cured my headache, cramps and any lagging sour demeanor I had. How can anyone drink more than two ounces of that stuff!!!
James H says
I stumbled on Cacao last week, and was pretty blown away. The owner (jesse?) was really nice and also told me about Portland Food and Drink, which was really helpful for finding restaurants in Portland, a town I dont know much about.
I think Cacao they must put a controlled substance in the drinking chocolate as I certainly had quite a buzz when I left.
I had never spent any time in Portland before, was in town on business in Oregon from california, and thought it might be a hick town. but between Powells Bookstore, a really great dinner at Park Kitchen, and other little shops, I have been pretty impressed. I love the no sales tax thing and the streetcar!
Jonathan says
Wow. After reading a great write-up in the Willamette Week, I instantly decided to check them out. Funny enough, I thought their address was in the Pearl district, thinking NW, but no, they’re South of Burnside just next to American Apparel.
Walking in, the place is impressive and overwhelming. This proves to be no problem at all as Aubrey, one of the owners, was all too happy to show me around, asking me about my chocolate experience to point me in the right direction. (…and so many directions)
I have to say that they house some of the most, if not the most beautiful, chocolate I’ve ever seen.
Please, do yourself a well-deserved favor, and visit Cacao.
Jeremy says
I could not agree more with everyone. This place is fantastic and has found a perfect home here in Portland. There really is nothing else to say that hasn’t been said already in singing the praises of this new outfit. So I am reluctant to make a request of them. I have to agree with FD in that I hope they can sell enough to stay in business. So here is my convoluted request as follows. I lived in Spain -the culture there is one of bars, nightlifes, restaurants etc. One of my fondest memories was walking home from nightclubs (not all that much different from the ones found around 13th and S. Burnside) at around 3 in the morning (adjust to 2am for the time clubs close in PDX) and being somewhat inebriated – feeling very hungry. You know what quenched those pains (no, not more cowbell) drinking chocolate AND CHURROS. yes my friends, please, oh please, give me an extra ounce of that lovely chocolate and so that I can dip a delectable churro in it. And not one of those wanna-be churro sticks like they sell at sporting events – make the real ones, in a big circle that aren’t completely covered in disgusting bland sugar that takes away from the delicious chocolate. my mouth is watering….
Food Dude says
Hmm. I wasn’t all that impressed by their toffee, but that is something I am very picky about. I allow myself one pound a year from my favorite place in Colorado. I’ve loved everything else though! Oh, I also liked the chocolate caramels from Sahagun, better than the Franz.
Susan B. says
One of the best things about Cacao? Jesse will put together a tiny gift box with 6 or so of their unbelievable gems and ship them anywhere, complete with a description of what the recipient has in store. It’s not really a fair thing to do because then the recipients become addicted, too.
And a word to the wise for those who have inexplicably NOT YET made it to Cacao: do NOT drive while eating one of their toffee bars. Either the milk chocolate or dark chocolate covered. It makes no difference. The proprietors will not be held responsible when you drive off the road because your brain cannot grasp something that tastes THAT good!
Jill-O says
Hey FD, would that be Enstrom’s? A friend from Chicago introduced me to them years ago and they are still the gold-standard for me where toffee is concerned. Best toffee I have ever had anywhere, ever.
The stuff Alma makes, especially her ginger toffee, is really good. I like the dark chocolate and the ginger cutting through the sweetness of the toffee itself.
Food Dude says
Jill-O: Yup; Enstrom. Reminds me I need to order some… er… for the holidays of course. Not for me. The stuff is addictive.
Food Dude says
mczlaw, I have. Didn’t even compare. (after the comments, I postponed my diet and ordered a 2lb box from enstrom)
mczlaw says
Dude & Jill:
Have either of you had the toffee from Tom & Larry’s in Seaside? it has been my gold standard since I was a wee one. Tom & Larry’s has been in the same spot on Seaside’s main drag for more than 50 years. It is incredible for longevity alone. Of course, I’d love to try some fancy stuff from elsewhere in a side by side.
Tom & Larry’s also makes some unbelievable chocolate and maple fudge. Impossibly smooth and creamy. If I could inject it, I probably would.
Any other lifers know what I’m talking about?
–mcz
Doctor Stu says
This place is fantastic, but it is way too expensive to make an everyday thing, like Pix.
If you want a chocolate rush cheap, get one of the 500 gram bars (over 1 pound) of Trader Joe’s Belgian dark chocolate in the red wrapper (higest cocoa content) for about $4
Jill-O says
I prefer the 3 small bars of dark Belgian chocolate packaged together (lavender colored labels) for $1.29 at TJ’s for my cheap chocolate fix (they’re Callebaut). They are often found at the racks next to the cashiers.
I also like the dark Chocolove bars which can be found at New Seasons (the ones with the candied ginger in them are very tasty).
Doctor Stu says
I think my favorite chocolate is a Valrhona bar that they have at New Seasons that is something like 86% cocoa butter.
ellie says
Stu –
I’m guessing you mean cocoa liqueur (solids) rather than cocoa butter… man I’d hate to taste chocolate that was 86% cocoa butter!
Doctor Stu says
Yes, of course you are correct. The bar I’m speaking about is what I would call slightly bitter, not bittersweet, but exceptionally creamy. I’ll have to get the exact Valrhona name for the bar I’m speaking about.
Doctor Stu says
This is my favorite chocolate bar. It is Valrhona, and New Seasons carries it…
ABINAO (85% cocoa) :
Exceptional bitterness.
This sophisticated bitter chocolate is the result of a blend of the finest cocoa beans from Africa. Its strong flavor has a powerful lingering intensity.
Dissapointed says
The Disneyland of chocolate shops. Very mediocre with a definite California feel.
Perhaps I hit a bad day, but in my opinion this place lacks the charm and flavor of Sahagun.
nancy says
Wow, I could not disagree more. The owners are so darn friendly, and knowledgable; we were there last week and they could not open enough samples for us, to compare. The stuff we brought home was, as usual, outstanding.
As for Disappointed choosing to not use his/her name, or any name: I do not understand this penchant for posting anonymously. How can someone write, “in my opinion,” and then stand behind a blank persona? What is this all about?
Food Dude says
I think everyone here loves Sahagun (see this review). They are two very different shops, and I think there is plenty of room for both of them. I tend towards Sahagun, but that’s because her caramels bring me to my knees.
Hunter says
Now Nancy had that same criticism come from “Joe” or “Louise” would it really make a difference? To some degree, we all have some level of anonymity here unless you choose to surrender it.
Cuisine Bonne Femme says
I love Disneyland!!! They have that old fashioned chocolate shop on Mainstreet USA with chocolate sundaes and chocolate covered strawberries, they also sell beignets in the New Orleans Square, and some pretty damn fine corn dogs that they hand dip and fry to order.
Dissapointed, Awesome comparison between Cacao and Disneyland!
So, If Cacao was Disneyland it would be the It’s a Small World After All ride where people would ride those little boats on a river of pure dark 70% Cacao drinking chocolate and tour the wonderful world of chocolates. First stop Mexico where we see the Aztecs offering xocolate to the gods, then Spain for some hot chocolate and churros, then France for some choclate covered caramel sprinkled with fleur de sel.
Sahagun would be Snow White’s Castle with Elizabeth Montes as Snow White offering the little singing birds and 7-elves tasty tidbits of her chocolates while she whistled while she worked. Of course her prince charming is Rodney from Podnah’s.
All sounds good to us.
And Fee-Fie-Foe-Fum, it reads as if Dissapointed has an agenda, hmm? Hey does anyone else remember that Disney story of the Troll that lived under the bridge? For some reason I am suddenly reminded of it…
Nikos says
Cacao is outstanding! It combines Paris/New York chic with personal warmth and passion by the owners. The seletion always changes. Their drinking chocolate is hard to find anywhere else. I disagree with the Disneyland comparison. I think they are the Disneyworld of chocolate(the one in Florida). Better than California! You cannot possibly have a chocolate love affair and NOT like this place! If chocolate was sex this would be Heffner’s Penthouse! (top that one for analogies)
Nikos says
Cacao in the Travel section of the Sunday New York Times! Not a surprise of course!
Cuisine Bonne Femme says
Thanks Nikos. Just more proof that Portland is becoming a burrough of Manhattan. Is this like the 6 time in two months Portland has been written up in the Times for food, arts, culture, etc.
Good for Cacao
SaltyCod says
Ah, but Mademoiselle, Manhattan does not have Cacao!
I’ve been to Max Brenner’s attempt, and it does everything wrong that Jesse and Aubrey do right. They are still here in Portland, and are rumored to be opening another Cacao inside the Heathman. So I guess perhaps in this case the East Village will grow up to become a hot new neighborhood in the Pearl?
Nikos says
I thought Cacao was perfect from day 1, but they are getting better all the time! New interesting chocolates every time I visit! Don’t give them any ideas SaltCod, they will move to Manhattan (good think real estate is so expensive there!)
Rumor has it the Heathman location is opening early June, that’s a superb location, lots of visitors will carry the word around the country (I see a Bon Appetit magazine write up in their future in my crystal ball.)
As for a chocolate fix in Manhattan, I go to “La Maison du Chocolat” (ok it has become a bit coprorate, but their single origin dark squares are to die for) or Kee’s Chcolates in Soho.
heartbietz says
My wife and I visited Cacao today with our 2 year old grandaughter. She was given a sample of my drinking chocolate with one of their lovely little ceramic spoons and she immediately responded “Chocolate Soup!”. Now we will be taking her there for chocolate soup whenever Bibi and Babu (Swahili for grandmother and grandfather) have the pleasure of daytime babysitting! And if you want samples! Go in with a beautiful 2 y.o. blond child!
Bibi and Babu
gallinaciega says
cacao is happy to give samples to other folks than two year old blond children. that’s what i appreciate about the place is the ability to taste before dropping 6-12 bucks on a new chocolate bar. love you boys!
brewmaster says
I’ve made a recent discovery: Cacao drinking chocolate. It was a rainy Friday, and I was feeling the Portland funk: that lethargic agitation that arrives with the November rain. I was on my way to Stumptown for a mocha, and it started pouring. I ducked into the lobby of the Heathman, where as greeted by a friendly girl who enthusiastically suggested a warm beverage. She read my mind. I ordered a large drinking chocolate.
Now, I’ve been visiting Cacao since I moved here two years ago. I buy chocolate from them probably once a week. But for some reason, and despite recommendations from my friends, I had never tried the drinking chocolate. Two words: Holy God! It’s as if I had found Jesus for four bucks. There is nothing on a rainy Oregon day that competes with this stuff. This is the best hot chocolate I’ve ever tried. It’s thick, and one can actually taste the characteristics of the chocolate. I feel like I just made a major discovery, and since last Friday, I’ve been three times. Now I wonder if we could get the city to build a pipeline of Cacao chocolate from the Heathman hotel to our kitchen faucets. Mayor Adams, are you listening?
JD says
Cacao must be out of Shangri-La. The folks there have an amazing knowledge of their product, are friendly and provide the best hot chocolate for adults on the planet!
pdxyogi says
Best HC on the planet? Have you ever tried Sahagun? I’m adult in some ways, and find it to be a revelation. Best I’ve ever had.
Chris Schultz says
This was from 10 years ago. Whats up food dude?
PDX Food Dude says
The original piece is from shortly after they opened. However, Lizzy rewrote it from the beginning. Almost all of the content has changed, to reflect all the differences in the store. All the photos are also new. When we rewrite pieces, I’ll repost them, but won’t delete the old comments or write it as a new story, as that isn’t good for SEO.
FYI, we did note this on the story.
PDX2CDG says
Nice to reread this. Walking into the store is part of the experience, it’s lovely. The drinking chocolate is the best, reminds me of my time in Barcelona, rich, velvety and smooth. Sit and sip, a nice break in the afternoon with a friend. Let’s go soon????