The Food Network just held their first, and hopefully last, awards show. What a horrible mess. I think so little of this type of thing, I wasn’t going to lower myself to mentioning the awards, but then I saw the show, and like a rubbernecking at a particularly horrible car crash, I had to look.
Here are the local awards:
Delicious Destination of the Year: Portland Oregon
Better Burger: Burgerville. (Better than what, I’m not sure)
Even more interesting (if anything could be interesting in this excruciating show), were some of the incredibly stupid awards:
Viewer’s Choice, Favorite Classic Read. Winner: Green Eggs & Ham. Huh? Books?
Professional Grade Kitchen Appliance You Can’t Live Without. Winner: microwave oven. Ooh! So professional!
Tasty Technology. Winner: PoliScience Anti-Griddle (“The Grant Achatz inspired “Anti-Griddle” is a traditional cooktop with an amazing twist: the device quickly freezes sauces and purees instead of heating them! This unique innovation allows you to effortlessly freeze sauces and purees solid or develop semi-frozen creations with stable, crunchy surfaces and cool, creamy centers.”).
What a show. Talk about reaching a new low. Actually, I don’t need to talk about it, because Anthony Bourdain already did, and he does a rather admirable job here (link no longer valid).
Nigella..the strange and fabulous Nigella Lawson!! Iconic in England– and internationally…. fabulously wealthy… a good cook…new to the Network– and this is her welcome. Surely she had no clue as to the horrors she was facing. She looked trapped up there on stage…”the information” as Martin Amis calls it, coming terribly, suddenly home with painful clarity. To be stripped of one’s dignity by one’s new masters so quickly and with such ferocity–all in the cause of some product placement cannot have pleased.
The selection and photography of “beauty plates” from winning “Delicious Destination, Portland, Oregon (in fact a terrific food destination) looked like somebody took a dump at McFunsters. Portland for f’s sake! They couldn’t find some good looking plates in Portland!?
Guess he likes Portland.
Daniel Mondok has moved to Olea.
As most of you have probably heard, Chef Daniel Mondok, the much celebrated foodie chef from Carlyle has moved to Olea, replacing the chef there who moved to Gracies. His first specialty dinner, the “Swine & Wine Dinner Series” for $45.00, sounds interesting:
First course: house made saucisson ▪ chorizo ▪ pork “pig in a blanket” ▪ boudin blanc ▪ fruited mustard. Second course: spit roasted porcheta roulade ▪ apples ▪ walnuts ▪ herbs ▪ honey ▪ dijon. Third course: braised pork shank ▪ black pepper pappardelle ▪ english peas ▪ cipollini onion. Fourth course: pig n’ pancake ▪ homemade aebleskiver ▪ egg ▪ walnut syrup ▪ bacon tuille
A wine pairing is available for an extra $20.
Mauro Pando, former executive chef at Red Star, has moved to the bay area.
From a breathless article in The Chronicle today:
“Mauro Pando, the former executive chef of Red Star in Portland, Ore., will take over the stoves at San Francisco’s Grand Cafe (501 Geary, at Taylor), replacing Ron Boyd, who is now at Aqua (252 California, at Battery). The Grand Cafe has seen three chefs in the last four years, but representatives of the Kimpton Group, which owns the restaurant, believe Pando has staying power.”
I don’t know about you, but I haven’t had a decent meal at Red Star in the last five years. Furthermore, I’ve heard nothing but complaints about chef Pando, from friends in the industry. It will be interesting to see how this shakes out. Link to the article here.
He has been replaced at Red Star by Chef Thomas Dunklin:
“a New Orléans native who arrived to Portland via Kuleto’s Italian Restaurant in San Francisco. Dunklin draws on his Southern roots and from a career that started in his hometown working with Chef Emeril Lagasse at Delmonico. “I use a scratch cook approach and create as much in-house as possible, using as many fresh and locally sourced ingredients as I can get my hands on. That’s why New American cuisine in Portland makes perfect sense. This is an up-and-coming culinary city where people are focused on their food and its origins.”
Aquariva restaurant to open on Portland’s SW Waterfront
With a website that offers little information, but lots of sexy soft focus shots of beautiful women Aquariva bills itself as an “urban Italian kitchen and wine bar”, set to open on May 18th. Aquariva, located in the Avalon Hotel and Spa on SW Hamilton Court, is one of the few restaurants in Portland set on the Willamette River, and offers terrific views from it’s many outdoor dining areas. It is also one of the only restaurants other than the Spaghetti Factory on the edge of the new glass tower upscale condo-land known as the South Waterfront District.
Chef Jack Yoss to Helm Ten 01 Restaurant
“Adam Berger and Michael Rypkema, owners of Ten 01 and Tabla, are excited to announce the appointment of Jack Yoss to executive chef at Ten 01, beginning Wednesday, May 23, 2007.
Yoss, who brings with him an impressive resume, plans to adapt the former menu to incorporate his own style, which is very much aligned with that of the owners. He describes his menu as “farm-to-table seasonal American cuisine” and notes that this “will be a great fit for all the local, artisanal ingredients already used in the restaurant.” Ten 01 will also introduce a spirited happy hour and bar menu featuring dollar sliders with lamb, beef, duck, salmon or tuna tatakai, oyster shooters, wild mushroom soup shots, and several gourmet thin-crusted pizzas, including one with smoked salmon and dill crème fraiche.
“We are thrilled to have Chef Yoss on board. When we tried his food, we immediately knew that he would take Ten 01 in the direction we want,” said co-owner Adam Berger. “Michael and I have learned some tough, but valuable lessons in the past few months. Obviously, the reviews were not what we’d hoped for and we’ve made positive changes as a result. We hope everyone – those who have either come in and been disappointed and those who have not come in – will come check us out and experience the food for themselves.”
Prior to joining Ten 01, Yoss was the executive chef at the W Hotel in Los Angeles, Calif., where he was responsible for all food and beverage operations for the 258-room hotel, including NINE THIRTY restaurant and The Backyard restaurant. His duties included creating and implementing menus for all hotel venues and events. Before that, Yoss was the chef de cuisine at Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio Restaurant in San Francisco, where he headed up menu development for the dining room, café, room service, and catering. Yoss has also held positions at Deep Creek Fishing Club in Ninilchik, Ala., and Chinois and Nero’s at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, Nev.
pollo elastico says
Dude, are you sure that Aquariva website is for a restaurant/bar in Portland? I’m pretty sure it’s the trailer for an upcoming avant garde soft-core porn flick set in the Italian Riviera.
grapedog says
Mauro Pando? I remember Rob Pando being the executive chef at Red Star long ago. Is Mauro related to Rob? Or, have I simply had too much Cotes du Rhone and pate de fois gras tonight?
Cuisine Bonne Femme says
Yeah, I almost wrote, “HBO Afterdark presents Aquariva, Portland’s first softcore porn restaurant,” but didn’t think people would get the reference. Glad you feel the same way I do about that ridiculous website. The tables do seem to have stellar views of the Willamette River though, n’est pas?
phoenix says
Shuna Fish Lydon the best pastry chef in america? How about En Ming Hsu? Former captain and judge of the US Pastry Team?
Julia says
im with grapedog
When did Rob change his name??
bon appetit San Francisco
T Lehman says
Last Tuesday, after devouring every last morsel of Siam Society’s “Dish of the Week”, the Pan Seared Halibut, I was moved to actually send a personal card to the chef responsible for, not just a dish of the week, but for the most perfectly cooked halibut I’ve ever experienced. I commented that night,”There isn’t a seafood restaurant around that could do better”. Disclaimer: we are friend/neighbors of owners but Adrienne wasn’t even working that evening. I’m continuing to rave about that perfect dish to friends even now a week later.
P.S. Bernie’s menu is lookin’ good too.
KT says
Aquariva will be in the old Rivers Restaurant spot, right? I’ve been watching the remodel during after-work runs along the river. I hope they can manage to offer a decent lunch menu—that area could really use a good business lunch spot. And the views are killer.
Rob says
Stopped by Kettleman’s today (just on the chance they were open). The bagels are fluffier and a little sweeter than I expected. But there was decent chewiness and the overall flavor was good. I’m curious what you think. Did not try any spreads. Also got a cookie, but I’m saving that for later ;)
ignatz moose says
Kettleman’s missed the mark.
Before they opened we were told they would be a “New York Style” bagel. To this old jew, that means: 4 oz. no more. crisp golden outside, dense, chewy, not rubbery, with enough ferment to give it a little sour and a noticable hole.
Kettleman’s cryptic “New York Boiled bagels” doesn’t really convey what they are doing.
Their bagels are pushing 6 oz. , like a massive dimple muffin.
no crispness, too easy on the sour, malt flavor and salt .And the hole is about sealed shut.
These giant bread loaves are perfect for a sandwich,
but as a bagel? no.
When i have served bagels I’m always asked, “are they boiled?” of COURSE they are boiled, If a bagel is not boiled it is a bialy.
The only non boiled bagel-bagel is Noah’s, which has a proprietary “make-’em-in-CA-and-ship-them-frozen-defrost-and-steam-and-bake” technique, and may be better than these. Sorry to say.
So differentiating yourself solely from them is kind of ridiculous.
Any szhmuck can change careers or pop up once in a while to sell bagels. It is consistancy and quality that make it good.
I will wait to see what Kenny and Zuke’s can do or wait for Tastebud’s at the Hilsdale Farmer’s market next week.
Doctor Stu says
Burgerville? Their stuff is OK if you are in a hurry, but if you want that kind of burger, In-and-Out is half the prices and tastes about the same or better.
Cuisine Bonne Femme says
I don’t think taste was the reason Burgerville was chosen. It is my understanding it is because the company is trying to focus on using local produce and organic meat, and thus the “better burger”. Although I’ll agree with you on the taste part. I’m not a big fan of the Burgerville Burgers. I do like their walla walla onion rings and hazelnut chocolate shakes though.
atlas says
Doctor Stu, is there In-and-Out burger in the metropolitan area?
Food Dude says
I think their burgers go up and down in quality, though they have been better in the past six months. Their fries suddenly have gotten MUCH better (I didn’t use to eat them).
Food Dude says
Lehman, I think that is some of the most perfectly cooked halibut I’ve ever had. I almost managed to eat the entire thing, but had to save room for dessert. You know, in the interest of thorough testing. ;>)
Kevin says
“Aquariva – Portland’s first Italian softcore porn restaurant” — love it. Hats off to Cuisine Bonne Femme. Though it should be noted that its official name on the website is “aquariva portland – italian urban kitchen + wine bar – on the banks of the willamette river.”
While I’m certainly glad to see that Aquariva is continuing the fine local tradition of eschewing capital letters in its materials (there’s a direct relationship between lower-case and pretension factor in the restaurant community), I have to give the place particular props for this innovation:
The address is listed as “0470 sw hamilton court.”
Any trendy Portland establishment can do the lower-case thing, but it takes some serious chops to come up with the superfluous zero. Well done.
KW says
Kettleman Bagels
What happened to Brian Setzler the original owner? Jeffrey Wang is now the CEO/President.
Betsy says
I brought 3 dozen kettleman’s bagel’s into the office today. Sent email to staff that said “free bagels- for a price”. The price? To give me feedback to roll into an office-wide group review.
I’ll have the results on MetBlogs later tonight…
The Other Kevin says
Actually I think alot of the addresses below Front/Naito begin with a zero. I don’t believe it is superfluous, if the zero didn’t exist one might assume it’s between 4th & 5th. Just happens to be lucky for them i guess.
Bill_C says
Kevin, they deserve no kudos for the zero, it is required. Check the April 6 Stumper in the Tribune.
unclesally says
hey smarty-pants “kevin”: the address “0470 sw hamilton court” is entirely proper. have you ever been to this pocket of southwest portland? all of the addresses are like that. they did not invent the superfluous zero, the fine city of portland did.
unclesally says
haha. not “0470 sw hamilton courtâ€.
“0470”
Doctor Stu says
Unfortunately, there is no In-and-Out burger in the northwest. I only mentioned them because they are so similar to Burgerville, but better and cheaper.
Pork Cop says
Stu, You gots dat right!!! I’m gonna enjoy one (4/4) of those right now. In N Out that is…..
miss witt says
Did anyone have a Goldberg’s bagel on SW Vermont? I loved those bagels and for $1 you could get a bagel with cream cheese and a cup of bad coffee or hot chocolate. There was nothing better after a long swim workout at the SWCC. I am still dwelling on the fact that they are no longer and a Plaid Pantry is there, now. harumph.
LadyConcierge says
To add to the “superfluous” zero info…
Portland is one of only 2 cities with the prefix zero. It causes many headaches with the post office; ie. computers not recognizing it. The logic behind it: the zero differentiates this part of SW Portland as being between I-5 and the river. (so I heard)
Writing to you from 0836 SW Curry St…
FoodGroupie says
I like Aquariva’s website. It’s different. Kind of like flipping through one of those fashion magazines.
Cuisine Bonne Femme says
Aquariva – All you readers crack me up. With all the food news this week, the Aquariva site has certainly been the popular comment post.
Kevin your comments were beautiful man, just beautiful. I choked on my coffee I was laughing so hard. So whether it is the City or Aquariva that put the zero before the numbers is of no matter – it still comes across as pretentious, especially given the neighborhood the restaurant is attaching themselves to.
As for the Aquariva website, well FoodGroupie, glad you liked it. And it would be like scrolling through a magazine, if they designed it to let you scroll through the pictures instead of just wondering how long it goes on, wondering if there is some useful information at the end, wondering if it will ever end. I found it annoying. So much FLASH, yet so little content. Where is the food? The food! Because we all know the food is the real money shot – not those sexy legged girls on vespas and leaning on fancy cars in the small town piazza. Maybe if they were eating pizza, or gelato, or pasta or some italian food things then it might make more sense and actually have a context.
Why oh why do so many restaurants that bill themselves as high-end serious dining desinations have such goofy and cheesy websites? (banging my head on the table). It kills me. And they probably spent a good chunk of money on it too. I sort of collect examples of bad websites, (don’t ask – I need them for professional reasons) so if anyone out there has any other glaring examples of other bad restaurant websites either from Portland or elsewhere, feel free to share. I know you readers, and I bet you’ve got some good ones.
Ok, that was my rant for the day. Whew I feel better. Who’s turn is it now?
shuna fish lydon says
I’m not the best pastry chef in America. And I don’t want to be in the pastry olympics.
You could say I’m a cross between Claudia Fleming, LL Cool J and Poseiden. I am as much inspired by savoury food as I am by Elizabeth Montes or letterpress printing.
But I am coming to your fine city and boy am I excited to do some classes there.
See you in summer!
Betsy says
Kettleman Bagels – The office review is now up on Metroblogging Portland…
Aaron S. says
While it may be fair to beat up on Burgerville for not having the same culinary qualities as a $10 burger from Castagna, Lovely Hula Hands, etc. – it’s FAST FOOD!! For a foodie with kids, it’s AMAZING to have a relatively guilt-free option for quickie, on-the-road meals. Sweet potato fries are great, fish & chips are not bad, and sometimes their shakes can be divine on a hot summer day. This is truly a company striving to impact the REAL food economy, and I for one am glad when they get some deserved kudos.
katherine o'hurt ya says
My high school sold Goldberg’s bagels in the student store, and i got so spoiled by those bagels! They were so authentic, they have made everything since seem like puffy, fluffy sweet rolls.
reflexblue says
I think people are romanticizing the In and Out urge. While their ingredients may be fresh, In and Out’s burgers are pretty much tasteless.
Also, I don’t do well with having sneaky bible scripture on my food packaging. That’s just me.
re: Kettleman’s
Brian was really just an investor. He pulled out.
Doctor Stu says
I don’t think anyone is romanticizing In and Out. All I’m saying is that they are as good as Burgerville, for less money. Neither is anything other than fast food, and can’t be compared to a burger at a real restaurant.
As to bible scripture on food packaging; I’ve never noticed it. I don’t want it either!
pollo elastico says
I’m romanticizing In-n-Out. It’s the best fast food out there, bar none. I’d rather have a double-double-animal-style-mustard-ketchup-instead than many burgers that cost 3-5 times as much. I would take that In-n-out burger over the ones I’ve had at Higgins and Alberta Street Oyster Bar, and nearly every brewpub in Portland.
Comparing their burgers to Burgerville is like comparing Scarlett Johanson to Lindsey Lohan.
Food Dude says
I too like In-and-Out, though a good part of that is more for sentimental value than the food. However, I don’t mind paying more for burgerville since they are making a real effort to buck the fast food industry with organic meats, buying locally, cage free eggs, etc. I think that stuff is important, and when I need a burger on the run, that’s where I go.
From their website:
miss witt says
Choosing an In and Out over the Higgins burger? Wow. I don’t think I could do that. Okay, I could do that circumstansibly (if that is a word-under certain circumstances I could do that is what I mean)
The best burger I ate was 12 years ago when I was pg for the first time. We went to The Mission, ordered burgers-the first burger to cross my lips in years. Years I say. I ate mine, leaned over and gave the death stare to my poor spouse. He handed over his other half of a Capt. Neon. Pure delight. Hindsight can be disturbing.
I took my preteen to lunch at The Cadillac Cafe a few weeks ago. He got a burger. It was delicious. Really delicious. I wish they were open for dinner, as I find it’s difficult to get a burger for dinner around here that isn’t made in my own kitchen.
David says
I’m from New york, went to Kettleman’s bagel and it is definitely the best bagel in portland. Too bad only one location in SE but worth the haul. good size, great crust, inside is chewy and malty…I miss home.
Oldandcranky says
The “0” in those numbers is logical … because the southwest addresses come down to First Avenue SW and hit zero at Naito. If you lived between Naito and First your address might be 50 SW Jefferson or whatever, between First and Second 150 SW Jefferson and so on. So, on the other side of Naito they could not call it “se” or “ne” because it isn’t and couldn’t start with 50 SW and 150 SW again and go up, it would duplicate. The zero reflects being beyond the “0” in sw addresses since it is still in southwest Portland. Like much in life, it works if you know how it works.
I wouldn’t call the Chron story “breathless” and I do not understand why Burgerville is thought to be anything but “barely edible” despite the kudos for buying local, but then I’m old and cranky, whadduiknow. Why do Newman’s and Whole Foods have halibut every time, the latter also has local (Washington) asparagus but in three frustrating trips I can’t get either, just excuses, at New Seasons. Now eat, you look thin.