I received this statement a few minutes ago from Naomi of Ripe/Gotham/clarklewis fame. I think it is a terrific letter that answers as many of the questions as she can, and puts some rumors to rest. Thank you Naomi.
Just wanting to make a brief statement- for the purposes of some clarification. Of course there are rumors flying – But straight from the source seems like it might be of better use to everyone.
Michael left the company abruptly on Wednesday. Yes, he gifted me his shares, and the control of the company. Upon his departure the company needed to be re-structured- both legally and fiscally.
Within that corporate re-structuring, came some important examination into the realities of all three establishments, (Gotham Tavern, clarklewis, and Family supper). Those things that were examined included both the financial aspects, and the overall operations of all 3 places. Within our corporate meeting, it became clear that while clarklewis was very very successful – gotham and supper left a bit to be desired.
Not one to do something 1/2 way…(and done with doing a bunch of things “pretty well”). I found my self ready to throw down- for the star that was shining- and simplify- to put energy into doing one thing extremely well. While clarkelwis is better than ever… It became clear that there must be a better formula for Gotham and Supper.
–So while it seems that everyone has decided that GBT is said and done- I myself, am not so sure. It is true- that while the formula is still off- I cannot personally afford to float all three things at once.
It becomes imperative at this point to say- yes, in the interim period while I and my partners look into other options- It made no sense to keep a ship with holes in it afloat. But I must remind everyone that it isn’t to say a new ship won’t be built, or the holes repaired. Surely there are many many options. Someone could buy it, or we as partners could restructure the current plan to make it more financially viable. The option is still there for someone within the company to design a plan that works better for that space.
I am not certain of the future of the tavern- and for that reason alone- feel other people’s certainty of finality- as pure conjecture.
Staff is all being paid, and have all been told face to face in a meeting today, of all of the intricacies of this difficult situation. Let’s face it- it is a tough business..but we all know the tavern stood out (for many reasons)- as a great place to dine in this beautiful, and inspired city. I am nothing but hopeful that whatever the end result is with the tavern and supper, the spirit of perfection that is the path and goal I set for my companies and myself…shine through in the very best way possible for everyone involved. Our decision to close the tavern (perhaps temporarily, perhaps long term)- was nothing short of the most difficult choice I’ve faced. With all of my current responsibilities, – I decided it was worth the time, rumors, and whatever else comes about…to re-group- and make the best possible decision as a whole.
People have been nothing short of Amazing! In their love and support.Also, I should say- that while supper is also closed for the next two weeks- (while we make a choice for a future plan). You can bet, and count on- that if it disapears..it will be only a short time before I do supper again. It is my original concept, and the heart and soul, and a lot of the “why” in what I do. None of that is gone. I certainly have learned though, that there needs to be a lot of focus and thought put into one thing..before another thing is started..or everything suffers. Everyone should know that whatever path i go on from here- is going to be one of great focus and intention.
Thank you to everyone.
UPDATE 5/1:
Some more interesting things I’ve been hearing today. Lunch has ended at clarklewis. Nothing more on that, website for all the restaurants are unchanged. From Oregon Live comes these tidbits: Rent at Ripe was $4,500 a month. Seems awfully high to me for that small unmarked space in an old building and no parking. Speaks volumes of the buisness savvy here. Also, “After meeting with two investors and Gotham co-owner Tommy Habetz, Naomi Hebberoy decided the restaurant was not financially viable. She said investors offered more money on a tighter operation. Habetz didn’t want to stay on. “He seemed like he had the wind knocked out of his sails,” Hebberoy said. Habetz could not be reached for comment.”
The big question is, where will Habetz land next? He’s a damn good chef and I’m not sure I can live without the chicken liver ragu.
Pam says
Wow. What a nice, graceful letter. I wish her all the best. And good score FD, for being the first to break the news! Naomi obviously knows who’s got it covered in this town.
J Eisenhart says
Hats off to Naomi. I hope GBT gets running again soon. Tommy is the best!
brad says
I think it is great Naomi came on here and filled us in on what is going on. Class act. I wish her the best.
Apollo says
Kill the restaurant! Kill the restaurant! Kill the restaurant! Oh wait, I think they did… The pretentious house of cards, writer in residence and all has fallen down… I wonder if mr. writer in residence wrote this letter for her as well? Well, they still have Clarklewis, oops, I mean clarklewis. How dare I capitalise the C. Maybe they can get better lighting there now that it is there one focus? Just an idea.
So does anybody think that they succeeded in their goal of killing the restaurant? Did they even make a dent? Or was that another nice little piece of media grandstanding? I wonder if GBT had been located in the Pearl, Downtown, or maybe one of the trendy restaurant rows on the eastside if it would have done better. It is sad because the food was actually pretty damn good. I just couldn’t stand the attitude of the owners.
blase says
brad,
it’s called damage control.
Pork Cop says
“Michael’s been a great voice, vision and force for cultural change” Blech!!!!!!! Who else would marry this guy?
Kris says
Regardless of what everyone thinks of the ripe establishments, anyone who has been faced with a company reorg in their careers knows it’s not an easy transition or stressfree thing. It’s bad enough watching your coworkers (and probably friends) pack their desk and be escorted out after being “downsized”, “resourced leveled” or what-have-you, I can’t imagine what Naomi is going through having to pick up the pieces from a marriage and a business all at once. It was brave of her to post what she did above.
Restuarants, like anything else, are a business – and many times, shake-ups /reorgs are for the best.
–kris
Sarah says
If Naomi reads this, please replace the cheap ass, incredibly uncomfortable chairs you have at clarklewis now that gave both me and my mother a backache for several days. The food was wonderful, but we won’t be back until the chairs are replaced.
No hater says
whether or not Naomi Hebberoy can continue her success in the Portland restaurant business (and I hope she can), and whether or not Michael Hebberoy ends up getting painted as the bad guy in ripe’s fall (which it seems he is), no one can dispute that both of them did a lot to put Portland on the map as a place for sophisticated food. And you have to give Michael Hebberoy credit where credit is due: he’s a showman and a self-promoter, but he also got people excited about food in PDX. A lot of what Portlanders consider to be excessively pretentious statements coming from M. Hebberoy would be considered fairly modest in New York or L.A. And that speaks to what he was trying to do: elevate Portland’s culinary scene to the same level of quality and discussion-worthiness as the biggest cultural meccas in the country – you don’t do that with aw-shucks self-effacing “I’m not SO great” statements.
Michael Hebberoy is probably gone from the Portland restaurant scene forever, but I don’t think anyone can deny that his influence will remain for some time, or that he and Naomi set a new bar for culinary quality in the Northwest.
True, Naomi and Michael held the unofficial titles of “prince and princess of the Northwest food scene” only for a short time. And although I wish Naomi success in keeping clarklewis afloat, I think that separating the food from the furor will be tough, and the conditions are ripe (no pun intended) for the torch to be passed to a New Guard of restauranteurs. But in terms of the quality of the food, Portlanders will be less likely to settle for anything less that what we’ve come to expect from the Hebberoys.
I think that Portland should wish Michael luck and say thanks.
witzend says
Awwwwww shucks ma’am (head down, kicking the dirt), you got me feelin’ all soft and gentle-like. NOT!
Thank Micheal for what?? Fleeing from responsibility once the chips got low? This is a reality check folks! It’s an opportunity for Naomi to run a restaurant sans gimmickry and hyperbole. I wish HER luck, not Michael.
vicki says
I’ve enjoyed many a meal at clarklewis too but being a senior citizen with hearing problem, I’d like to suggest if any changes are going to be made, please do something to absorb the sound — rugs, banners, etc — so those of us who have hearing problems can enjoy conversation as well as great food.
Istvan says
I don’t think Michael can be accused of inconsistency. In a profile in Food & Wine in January (entitled “What’s Eating Portland’s Food Provocateur?”), he said “I’m not interested in having the career arc of a restaurateur. I’m more defined by departures.” Well, now he’s departed. Maybe this is a dramatic way of redefining himself and moving on to his next project?
Vapid1 says
Thanks Micheal! You’ve been Great! I can’t help but be reminded of The Music Man.
Harold Hill: A man can’t turn tail and run just because a little personal risk is involved. What did Shakespeare say? “Cowards die a thousand deaths, the brave man… only 500”?
Salesman on train: How far you going, friend?
Harold Hill: Wherever the people are as green as the money… friend.
So here’s Micheals due. Thanks for your shameless self promotion. Thanks to the media for fawning over the gregarious hack in lieu of real restaurateurs with real goals, real passion, and real skills. Thanks for financially handcuffing two promising young chefs to your personal playground and money pit. Thanks for mistaking Homerian levels of hubris for real ideas backed by real experience. Thanks for the real people who are now really out of work. Thank you shill, mountebank, poseur, egotist and braggart. Thanks for being a flash in the pan so we can now move on to those who are serious and care about their staff and customers not their press. The only ones I wish luck to are those who tomorrow are filing for unemployment.
singingpig says
Darn you, Istvan, I was going to use Michael’s quote “I’m more defined by departures” Out in E. Oregon where I come from we refer to people like him as “All shit and no git”.
I disagree that the Hebberoys did a lo to put Portland on the map as a place for sophisticated food. I feel they only gave us notoriety in the same sense as Tonya Harding. It is just another flash in the pan, smoke and mirrors based on hype. I love the way they sucked Karen Brooks in along with many other food writers.
Greg Higgins, Vito Paley, Cory Schreiber, Philippe Boulot and others have done way more to put Portland on the map for sophisticated food. They travel the world teaching and promoting Portland. The Hebberoys will take their place in NW history with Tonya Harding and DB Cooper.
Food Dude says
Vapid1 – It scares the heck out of me that you are quoting the Sound of Music on my site. What’s next – showtunes?! This is the beginning of the end.
Vapid1 says
There is nothing more dangerous than a resourceful idiot. -Dilbert
If the quote fits.
witzend says
Vapid1~
Wonderful analogy.
Do you think the band instruments arrived before Harold skipped town?…or is Marion just stuck with the bill?
“…You’ve got trouble my friend, right here in River City!”
Vapid1 says
Would that be trouble with a lower case t?
gourmand says
does this mean the hot space they were going to open downtown is available now????
Food Dude says
gourmand – I beleve you are thinking about Bruce Carey opening in the Clyde hotel read here
That has fallen through.
gourmand says
thx –
i heard michael was going to open there
either way…. somebody, please!!!!!! – a cozy, fun, delicious and civilized establishment.
Papa says
Vapid1
Please clarify some things for me. Thanks in advance for your response.
Isn’t “self promotion” by nature “shameless”? If you have examples to the contrary, please advise.
Granted most local people employed under the title “food critic” are undeserving of the position and lame at best. However, many respected national culinary journals promoted Michael’s concepts and constructions. Were they fooled? Michael had real goals and with real passion, real skills and much hard work over the last few years he opened real restaurants where real people ate real food, experienced real joy and paid real money.
Are you implying that Michael’s partners were so naive and unaware as to not know what was going on within their operation? Are you implying that he deliberately mislead them? All the partners are bright, talented adults and enjoyed close relationships with Michael. In fact, Michael worked closely with them to realize their professional goals. He also utilized the contacts he had garnered previously and vouched for them with the folks who were contributing financially so that they could become owners. None of them owned a business before working with Michael. He also let them run their own department leaving them responsible for choices that directly effect labor and food costs. This expenditure is at least somewhat related to any aforementioned “money pit”.
As for the employees, I know from firsthand experience that he cared greatly for his staff. People there were considered family in more than mere use of the name. For the most part, people were treated graciously and with respect. True, employees hope and expect that their employer will strive to make the business flourish for everyone’s benefit. However, reality often differs from our hopes and expectations. No one can fully rely upon a business to remain viable. Why do you expect him to commit his life, energy and time so that you can remain employed? That is selfish and unrealistic. As an employee you are paid to perform tasks within a job description, not guaranteed sustainability. Have you ever developed anything that provided employment for over 100 people over a number of years? His ideas, energy and charisma created the space for the jobs to exist in the first place.
realitycheck says
the empire is self destructing because of no one but michael and naomi.
there are people involved who were more involved, invested and manipulated than your standard at will employee making minimum wage plus tips not that they aren’t relevant but lets be clear here there are people who invested their careers, reputation and livelihood… for what?
their self absorbed behavior has been appauling from the get go. why should it be any different now ??? because they are taking everyone down with them.
Vapid1 says
Your response Papa.
1)Yes self promotion is inherently shameless. It is also ‘Self’ promotion.
2) National publications are no more valid or legitimate simply because they are nationally circulated. That is a specious argument. Is McDonalds better than Burgerville simply because McDonalds is a national chain? Nor is Food media and journalism, national or local, known for its rigorous standards. Is Rachel Ray or Bobby Flay the pinnacle of American cuisine because they are plastered on cookbooks and the Food Network? Is Olea one of the best new restaurants in the US? Food marketing is always looking for a pretty face. He worked hard building a sand castle the media annointed as Giza. Now one of those real restaurants is really out of business and people are owed real money.
3) Did Micheal intentionally bilk people out of their money. Most likely not. However he does have ‘an uncanny way of talking people out of their money.’ The part of a good salesman is selling regardless of the efficacy of the product. Believing, if even temporarily, in what your selling. The easiest people to sell to are those that want to believe in what you’re selling. All involved are complicit. Now those who actualized a dream of becoming business owners are now actualizing the emotional and fiscal pain of losing a business. If you lie with the devil inevitably you’re going to get screwed. Food and labor do not damn a restaurant after only one year.
4) ‘Why do you expect him to commit his life, energy and time so that you can remain employed? That is selfish and unrealistic.’ I suppose it is unrealistic to expect a business owner to commit his life to maintain employment for his staff. However if a business owner is to stay in business, which is the goal of a business, then that business owner would need a staff. A staff of employees that would come to rely on that business for their source of income. One does not; however, expect the business owner to skip town without any notice when things get tough. When that happens one begins to question the business owners real passion, as well as commitment, professionalism, vision, and real concern for the employees.
blase says
hear, hear…now can we move on, folks, to real people who are driving successful and truly innovative restaurants? or do you remain stuck in your tepid soap opera, pondering earth shattering possibilities: will naomi have the fortitude to pull the iron out of the fire? will michael come to his senses and return on a winged steed to resurrect his fallen empire? will tommy show us what’s underneath that trenchcoat?
enough drivel. in the scheme of things the ripe machine wasn’t an empire. it was merely a hiccup.
not surprised says
KARMA EXISTS – Film at 11:00
My very limited exposure to, and knowledge of Michael and his empire provided me enough insight into what kind of person he is. The term impresario comes to mind. When you entertain as Michael did, what is most important is how others help promote your vision. I had nothing to do with his business endeavor, and was thankfully not in his orbit.
Because of this, I saw how he looked right through people he did not need. He had the power to make others invisible, while casting warmth and light on those he saw as helpful to his undertaking.
I plead ignorance to what really happened to his business, and I can proudly say I’ve never eaten more than a moldy bagel from any of his establishments. His arrogance ruined my appetite, no matter how much everyone raved about the food and the “atmosphere.” It is not about food, it is about how you treat those you need nothing from.
Is it a given that those with boundless entrepreneurial creativity, sales and business sense are really hollow and callous? I don’t want to admit this, but there are a few local examples that bear this out. FUP comes to mind.
I envy foodies who can separate the person from the plate. Exclusivity is only attractive if you are on the inside looking out. That was Michael’s calling card. Come be part of my private little party, I promise you it’ll be worth the crazy high price of admission.
This begs the question of what purpose his cafe/tavern/restaurant really served. Was it really about the food, or more about talking up the great time you had at clarklewis, loud enough so all can hear?
Michael succeeded in fostering a clubby, in-crowd feel. I guess you could say Portland could use a little of that, or NOT. Maybe this is not the city for the size of his vision. Maybe he’ll find that perfect place to create the next snobbish watering hole/eatery/club. He has the type of personality that is self-righting, and he’ll be fine.
I do wish the best to Naomi, since she appears to be the much better half of this former dynamic duo.
Hang the DJ
Guilia says
I wonder where Michael has gone
It seems like the wrong idea to run away from Portland instead of facing the problems. But every now and again I guess it is important to get a little perspective from a distance.
Naomi and Michael will both be fine. This can only make them stronger, better people in the end. At least, that is what one must opt for when the shit hits the fan as it has in the past week for them. The strange thing is that I think many of us loved the concepts they brought to their establishments in Portland. I no longer live in Portland but every so often I am reminded by memories I had at clark lewis, working there the first summer they were open, it was magical and new and people were really excited…us working and those who came to the restaurant. Now, nearly 2 years later, I guess I thought that clark lewis would always be a place I could count on to come back to in Portland. And I hope that is the case in the future. Michael provided a certain appeal to the place that people writing about clark lewis seem to dance around like a white elephant. He had a look in his eye that said anything is possible.
Ummm... says
I’d expect the creditors’ and investors’ next move will be a demand to open up the books.
noego says
A few thoughts to add…
Michael and Naomi weren’t the first to use the family supper model. It was being done in the Bay area before ripe got going. (Indeed, much of what they repackaged can be traced to that food scene.)
They do, however, get credit for bringing the concept to Portland and putting it to use. But folks the real issue is…
did the original success of this experiment justify the ensuing investment of talent, capital, and promotion? I don’t think so. The appeal of exclusivity (to employees and customers and food writers alike) was strong at the outset. They were building upon the ambitions and talents of others, expecially those in the kitchen.
If national attention was their goal, then affirming their association with others in this city and elsewhere committed to the same food principles would have been a better platform from which to operate. Instead, they claimed to be different and superior.
What we are seeing now is a correction. The outcome for Naomi can be positive I think, but she needs to examine the origins of her enterprise.
singingpig says
noego,
I saw your response to my post in Park Kitchen. I see you are posting the same info here, so I will respond here.
I was poking fun at Naomi for her recent post stating that family supper is her original concept.
Somewhere on this site is my short rant about this very thing–the Hebberoys taking credit for something that has been around for decades, if not longer. I have eaten at many family suppers over the last 40 years.
All of the best Mexican restaurants In the small E. Oregon town I grew up in were of this genre. Unlicensed, held in a private home, and you needed to know someone in order to be invited.
I have attended many family suppers over the years in PDX and Vancouver where great southern fried catfish dinners were on the menu. These were held to help someone pay their rent or buy their medicine for the month.
You see, they didn’t even start in the Bay Area, nor are they just for crush parties. Economically disadvantaged people of many ethnicities have been supplementing their income for many decades, if not longer, by the family supper concept. Now we have the Hebberoys trying to take credit for the concept. That is the concept of my post under the Park Kitchen review.
Lynx Ginkgo says
I wish Naomi success. I just have the following comments, now that clarklewis is her flagship.
1. clarklewis has some of the best food in the Northwest, when Morgan is at the stove. When he’s gone, we notice.
2. People NEED decent, comfortable chairs and a noise level that allows for conversation, if they are to frequent a restaurant!!!! I would have been a regular at Family Supper but for the awful chairs and near-factory-floor noise levels. Seriously. And clarklewis shares these flaws. PLEASE consider more soundproofing (a carpet would be a good start) and some better chairs. Even with the excellent food, my family and I could only occasionally agree to brave the chairs and noise for a dinner out.
noego says
singingpig,
Indeed. My thougts exactly. The reference to crush is simply one example of a widespread practice. Strange how the ripe klan mixed a humble tradition of inclusiveness with pretentious exclusivity.
nyota says
I also wish Naomi well. The world is full of bad ideas that succeed and good ones that fail. Few of us even bother to try. That said, I just learned that GBT gift certificates will not be honored at clarklewis. I’ll admit some self-interest here, but I think that’s pretty crappy. Separate businesses or not, this is not the time for Ripe to turn away friendly faces.
MyNextMeal says
o·rig·i·nal adj.
1. Preceding all others in time; first.
This thread is seriously beginning to annoy and amuse me.
I don’t think Naomi Hebberoy intended to say she invented the family dining concept.
I’m a relative newbie to PDX, but wasn’t Family Supper the *original* idea that launched the Ripe group of restaurants? In the sense it was their *first* restaurant that preceded clarklewis and gotham?
The Hebberoy/Ripe saga is somewhat interesting but the comments a little…silly. This is a PR statement – not a poem to be dissected for hidden meanings and intents. But I guess that is what the blogosphere is for.
Personally, I can’t wait for FoodDude to add more reviews and interviews to the site and push these NaomiMichael / Bennifer / Brangelina / TomKat stories into the archive and out of sight.
Pork Cop says
This IS taking on a sorta “As The Stomach Turns” quality. Starring Jack Scalia as Mike “Roid” Hebberoid and Susan Lucci as Naomi “ME, ME” Hebberoid. Stay tuned for a shocking conclusion……
inside view says
I’ve worked at clarklewis since it opened, and with Michael and Naomi long before that. I certainly understand that the ridiculous amount of press they inspired created a lot jealousy and frustration, so it’s no surprise to witness the volley of gleefully scornful remarks.
I could write volumes on this, obviously, but what I want people to know is that the food at clarklewis has completely spoiled me, and that every single night many, many people tell me how amazing their meals were (people who are able to accept the fact that it’s dark and noisy). And to those of you who love to complain (understandably) about the uncomfortable chairs, we’re getting new ones! Yes, it’s true. We actually do care about your comfort.
Sociologists know that hashing and rehashing the details of a situation create and strengthen community, thus the popularity of blogs. We do need to talk about things like this, whether it’s on the street or on a computer screen. So here’s to our strengthened community. And here’s to Morgan Brownlow, the unsung hero of this story, and his resilience and focus. If you’ve never eaten at clarklewis, please do before you utter another word about food critics being swayed by Michael’s sparkly circus of ideas. The reason clarklewis has been successful from the start is not because of Michael, but because of Morgan and his food, which is truly wonderful.
Dave J. says
I don`t think Naomi Hebberoy intended to say she invented the family dining concept.
You said just what I was going to say: when I read the phrase “original concept,” I interpreted it to mean that of the dining establishments with which she has been associated with in Portland, family supper was the first. I don’t think she was trying to say that this concept didn’t exist before she came along.
I guess that’s the problem with reading vs. hearing. When you listen to someone, you hear the stress on certain words. “My original concept” has an entirely different meaning that “my original concept.”
Food Dude says
Do to all the publicity this is getting, we are getting a big influx of readers this week. With so many new people, here are a few guidelines.
I’m sure we’ve all heard gossip about affairs revolving around this story. For legal reasons, I don’t want to go there. If you want to email me, that’s fine.
Also, let’s stay away from blatant personal attacks on other commenters.
Finally, if you are tired of this thread, um, don’t read it. I’ll keep other stuff coming. Also, keep in mind the Hebberoys have said some incredibly stupid things over the years. If you are new to the area, you may not realize many of the comments here reference statements made by them many months ago. Search on “hebberoy” if you want to come up to speed.
Naomi Hebberoy says
I have to say that I never intended at all to imply that family supper was MY concept- that would be crazy…I leave such comments to my ex-partner Michael. if one looks over past “incredibly stupid” things the Hebberoy’s have said… they have probably come fromk a mouth other than my own. (just a guess)
Rumors abound. I must say that everything is pretty messy…and I’m fighting my hardest to straigten it all out…My main objective is to be open and honest about everything..which has been MY objective all along.
I am happy and excited by the task at hand- It is f’ing insane…but I am doing my best to rock it out…Thanks to those who have been supportive- and to those of you with complaints I say…check out wether it has more to do with my EX (than with me, or my businesses)-…and know that Moragn and I are working steadily to make clark the best it can be.
ps. call it CLARKLEWIS, clarklewis, CLARKlewis, or whatever you like.
Pretention be gone- good food and real people..it’s what I care about. – In case anyone wanted to know.
Pork Cop says
Dude, I wasn’t complaining. The food/drama combo platter is one of my favorites. More…more…..
Food Dude says
Pork Cop – others have. Believe me, I’m getting letters. On the other hand, see above; plus know I am working on a special project ;)
Naomi – Thanks. I always hated spelling CL that way. And yeah, I wasn’t referring to you when I was talking about “incredibly stupid”.
Bean says
Boy, it’s easy to be a critic people! The Hebberoys have accomplished more in 3 years than any “food lover” or what have you, will accomplish in 30. They have been daring and attempted to create unique atmospheres and food concoctions. Not everyone will like it!
There is no way anyone cannot praise them for the projects they have done, and the excitement created by them. I look forward to the next endeavor by both partners.
Good luck to Naomi and Michael in this transition, it must suck.
Apollo says
FD, this math is killing me… I haven’t had to add since high school… ;)
Naomi, in my opinion, that was probably one of the best responses I have read in a long time. I had a huge problem with the attitude and pretension coming from the ripe empire. I stopped going to Gotham when that lame writer in residence started stinking up the place. But I think you are being genuine, and that goes a long way. Your post (#39) seemed very heartfelt to me and not some piece of fluff tossed out of the ripe PR machine. I’ll give it a little while and see if you can sort some of the attitude issues out at clarklewis. I’ve always thought the food was good there as well as GBT. If you concentrate on the food and not the attitude, you can count on me as a customer.
Vapid1 says
Addition by subtraction…Good luck simply making good food again and restoring the focus.
Hungry T says
Just noticed that GBT is in the new (May 2006) Food & Wine as one of Portland’s “Best New Restaurants.” (they also list Olea and Roux, and mention Tabla as a “Best Deal”) Rather unfortunate timing…
singingpig says
inside view,
You could not possibly be MORE WRONG in your assessment of people being jealous and frustrated by the press the Hebberoys received. The problem isn’t the amount of press they received, but the content. As Food Dude quite candidly put it. they have said some incredibly stupid things over the years. The emotions are disgust and embarassment more than jealousy and frustration.
Smitty says
The Gotham Tavern was a good idea, right up to the part where they forgot they were in the food service business and tried to sell “gestalt”. The drivel from Michael about how everyone needs to “get” them is just exquisite bullshit. When did you ever hear anything from him like “we want to provide great cuisine with a great atmosphere and we hope our customers will be pleased and return”. Oh, sorry – that would be what a restaurant would want to do. The hubris on Ripe’s part was just astounding. Introducing the latest addition to the Ripe menu: Humble PIe.
Ploskost says
I appreciate the get-back-to-basics, no-hype approach, but I think that the debate here, unless I’ve missed something, omits the “chicken or egg” aspect: the Ripe restaurants’ food wouldn’t have received the renown it has without Michael’s hype, and Michael’s hype would have been immediately dismissed if it weren’t for the good food and novel dining experience to back it up. This is what made Naomi and Michael the synergistic power couple they were.
Obviously a lot of people were annoyed by the hype and the pretentious statements, and this is pretty much to be expected in rootsy Oregon. But then again, rootsy Oregon has never been noted as much of a culinary center. Hyperbole is a big part of haute cuisine, and if Portland wants haute cuisine it needs to be able to tolerate a blowhard or two. To get big you need press, and to get press you have to be able to produce quotable copy.
However this all shakes out, the Ripe saga shows there IS a niche for showmanship and big-concept thinking in Oregon dining (as long as the restaurants have the food to back it up), and I expect that with Michael’s departure, this niche will simply be filled by someone else. The Portland restaurant scene has matured to this point. Portland likes feeling cosmopolitan and likes being “discovered” again and again, and that won’t stop with this mini-scandal.
Pork Cop says
What’s your definition of “Haute Cuisine”? That term applied to Gotham Tavern seems rather hyperbolic.
Z says
Look for Tommy in the kitchen at Apizza Scholls. How much better can that place get? I’m really happy for him and for Brian and Kim. I was going to make tracks wherever he landed; god, he has talent. Since I’ve already worn a path to Apizza Scholls, I’ll just have to wait to see what great stuff comes out of there next. Take a brilliant baker and a brilliant chef and put them together and just imagine the fun they will have.
I’ll miss the food at GBT. Regardless of egos and hype, the food was great. Their moxie gave us a great ride while it lasted. Michael and Naomi kicked things up a notch in Portland and we should acknowledge that and give them their due. I’m sure Naomi will rise to the occasion once again. Let’s hope so.
Jess says
Everything Naomi has written seems quite heartfelt, and incredibly gracious, considering the state she must be in, and the incredible amount to vitriol on dispay about her restaurants.
What I notice most is that the decisions she has made are in line with what everyone was saying should be done, anyway. Less hype. More about the food. Gotham doesn’t have a direction/is undeserving. clarklewis can be pretentious. etc. etc. etc.
Closing Gotham, letting go of the mouthpiece, and concentrating on perfecting the experience at the best of the restaraunts seems like the best possible solution for someone facing a lot of difficult decisions. There is certainly room for improvement at CL (IMHO they could occasionally be less incredibly minimalist, and that the whole-animal thing leads to too much slow cooked pork and gamey lamb), but that’s what she’s saying, too.
So what are we still complaining about?
FD: One thing about ‘clarklewis’ v. ‘Clark Lewis’ v. ‘Clarklewis’: I have a lot of graphic designer friends who work on logos and such. Fonts, and the creative use of typeface, are one of the simplest and most consistent ways to brand something. The name, Clark Lewis, could imply any kind of restaurant, from stuffy to simple, from steakhouse to macrobiotic vegan. Changing the type to ‘clarklewis’ instantaneously tells you that the place is very modern, and probably not cheap. That’s a lot of information. I mean, write it however you want to, but I understand why the Hebberoy’s chose to do it in the first place.
Smitty says
Reaction to #48 – Ripe’s food earned its reknown on its merits and for chef Tommy’s talents and Ripe customers’ and critics’ accollades. Yea, the couple’s hype machine did assist in broadcasting that. But I’m saying that people DID dismiss more and more of the hype. I make a distinction here between “smart hype” (quality food, quality service, publicity, buzz, swanky magazine articles, etc.) and “dumb and annoying, even creepy hype” (kill the restaurant, writer in residence, gestalt, arrogance). Not sure how much this was pulling them down, but I do think it suggests loss of touch with the economic reality of being, in fact, a restaurant business.
Bigfoot says
Read today’s O article on this topic. There is an interview with “M” himself. I don’t think he ever used the pronoun, “we.” He did say “I” alot. Pretty much sums it all up.
blase says
c’mon now. isn’t it laudable when someone achieves his goal? in michael’s case he exceeded this. not only did he kill his restaurants, but he demoralized his chef and staff,threw them and their incomes onto the pavement, and no matter what anyone says, he left a bad taste in the mouths of pdx’s diners- not to mention wasting several key spots on the oregonian’s diner 2006.in this morning’s o he states that he hopes pdx will remember him as making a “contribution.” his only contributions were adding to unemployment in the city and demonstrating how an immature egotist can squander immense good fortune.
hunter says
Though I am taking a bit of perverse pleasure in Michael taking it in the shorts (I’ve seen his idiocy and ego first hand), I am really going to miss the chicken liver ragu and fried egg sandwich dammit.
Food Dude says
Hunter, I was thinking the same thing yesterday. Maybe food day will manage to get the recipe for the ragu.
Pork Cop says
Yeah,”Haute Cuisine” like fried egg sammiches and chicken liver ragu aren’t really very hard to make yourself.
hunter says
Not the point. I actually liked the way they did those dishes. I’ve made them for years, professionally and not, and theose were 2 of my favorite things in the city.
Pork Cop says
Yp…but it’s still just chicken liver ragu and a fried egg sandwich………Portlanders have rather low food expectations..
well seasoned says
Just wanted to add my 2-cents’ worth of congratulations to Tommy for landing in such a perfect new job. There ARE smart, caring, generous, unpretentious people in the restaurant business, and Brian and Kim are among the very best. As an Apizza Scholls fanatic, I too can’t wait to see what emerges from Tommy’s partnership with Brian.
Ploskost, re: your comment –
“But then again, rootsy Oregon has never been noted as much of a culinary center. Hyperbole is a big part of haute cuisine, and if Portland wants haute cuisine it needs to be able to tolerate a blowhard or two. To get big you need press, and to get press you have to be able to produce quotable copy.”
There’s so much that’s wrong in this comment that it’s hard to know where to start.
1) Oregon, especially Portland, has been touted in the national press as a prime culinary destination for at least the last five years.
2) Oregon’s version of “haute cuisine” restaurants, like its versions of music clubs, art galleries, theater companies, etc., tends to deliberately avoid hype. Many chefs here came from other places, like New York (my city of birth), where hype routinely overwhelms quality. They were drawn not only by Oregon’s incomparable local ingredients but also by the honesty of the restaurant scene here. There’s a reason Oregonians are the way they are; we’re not just dumb hicks who don’t understand how the world works.
3) Michael Hebberoy wasn’t the first, nor will he be the last, big-ego “blowhard” to arrive on the Portland restaurant scene. I’ve seen quite a few in the past thirty years, and I find it interesting that every single one of those blowhards has eventually blown out of town (frequently hanging paper on the way out). Portlanders just don’t seem willing to “tolerate” them.
4) The chefs in Oregon who spend their time putting out inventive, locally-sourced food that’s consistently delicious (BTW, what’s your definition of “haute cuisine”?) have no problem getting press, thank you. Greg Higgins, Vitaly Paley, and Philippe Boulot have won Beard awards; Scott Dolich was recognized as one of the top 10 young chefs in the country by Bon Appetit; and they and many more of their colleagues are frequently written up in the national food mags.
5) Most of us don’t care about “big” – we care about “good.” Leave the hype to NY and LA; we’ll just keep on producing and eating some of the best food in the world.
Pork Cop says
Ya lost me at:”we’ll just keep on producing and eating some of the best food in the world” Hong Kong,Paris,London,New York,Rome,Mexico City,Brussels and ta da…. Portland,OR ? You were making a lot of sense up until that one……..
Carlo says
I haven’t lived in Portland long — only a year — and I’ve never thought about this before, but I’ve spent an awful lot of time in restaurants in the cultural capitals, from New York and Washington to London and Paris. And you know what? I think the overall food scene in Portland can more than hold its own in comparison. Yeah, it’s that good. Could it be that the folks who’ve been here longer than I have don’t realize just how good they have it here?
Max C says
About those of us who hold unused GBT gift certificates – I bought $1400 worth for 14 of my employees to reward them for hard work. And, “no” was the answer I got when I asked if we could use them at clarklewis, and “no” was the answer I got when I asked if we could get a refund. Anybody have any suggestions?
Pork Cop says
That’s ridiculous…..Blind boosterism is a hallmark of a small town mentality.
Food Dude says
This is the second time someone has mentioned this issue. Maybe we can get one of the lawyers here to chime in, but if you got the gift certificates recently and paid by credit card, I’d contest the charge immediately. Obviously I’m not a lawyer, but it seems to me since GBT has not gone bankrupt, small claims court might be a good option.
Pork Cop says
Maybe the new and improved Naomi Hebberoy has some suggestions…
Z says
Portland doesn’t have too many top tier restaurants, but is flush with places that just a notch below. We really are fortunate. One can go out every night to a different restaurant for a month and be seldom disappointed.
Pork Cop says
For a city it’s size Portland’s a very good food city. Why cant that be enough?
Carlo says
Pork Cop: For a city its size, Portland’s food scene is far better than any other city its size I’ve ever seen. Whether what Portland offers ranks among the “best in the world” depends, I guess, on how one defines “best in the world.” (Best meal I’ve ever had in the world was at Guy Savoy in Paris; then again, the bill for the three of us at that dinner came to $1,500.) I’ve also dined at Michelin 3-star places in Paris that were pretentious jokes.
My point about Portland is that there are a LOT of places here where you can get exceptionally fine food day in and day out: Olea, Park Kitchen, Wildwood, Acadia, Fenouil, Jo — too many to mention, really. That’s my definition of a great food town: One that offers so many interesting, high-quality choices that it’s never hard to find a great meal. It’s not at all about whether Portland is graced by the presence of a celebrity chef.
well seasoned says
Pork Cop: Okay, maybe I got a little carried away at the end of my post, but the emphasis was always on “some” in the phrase “some of the world’s best food.” I’ve eaten pretty frequently in New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, Paris, and around Italy, and those experiences always make me appreciate the amazing level of quality we have here. For example: in 1994, just before Robuchon closed his eponymous three-star restaurant, I had the degustation menu there, which was of course amazingly wonderful; however, one of the fish courses was almost identical to one I’d had at Genoa a couple of years before – and the Genoa version was better. Le Bernardin is exquisite, but I’ve had equally exquisite food at Paley’s. And so on.
The truth is that passionate, perfectionist cooking can happen anywhere, not just in major world capitals; and in Portland, where local farmers, ranchers, fishermen, cheesemakers, winemakers, etc., bring similar passion to their work, talented chefs can create world-class food. That, BTW, is why so many chefs are relocating to Portland, which in turn is why it’s such a hot food town.
Finally, I have to challenge you on “Blind boosterism is a hallmark of a small town mentality.” No, the hallmark of a small town mentality is the inability to appreciate high quality when it happens to be local. It’s a kind of civic low self-esteem: if it’s in Portland, it can’t be as good as anything in New York, etc. Philippe Boulot illustrated this beautifully when he said “people from Portland will go to Las Vegas and have a dinner for $600 and not think twice about it.” Las Vegas! Where nothing on your plate hasn’t been flown in from somewhere else, and all the fancy sauces and foams and tortured presentations can’t disguise that the ingredients are jet-lagged.
I think Z said it best: “We really are fortunate. One can go out every night to a different restaurant for a month and be seldom disappointed.” That’s a high standard for any city, and for a city of Portland’s size, it’s remarkable.
Pork Cop says
Fair enough!!BTW, I never said that Portland didn’t have the potential to become a world food city. Just that it’s not there yet.First we take Seattle then we take…….?
well seasoned says
Thanks for the gracious response, Pork Cop – now let’s both get out there and EAT!
wynde dyer says
Perhaps I will not be finishing my ethnography of Family Supper for my thesis? Regardless, my peripheral yet personal investment in this limb of the Ripe trifecta is, well, strong, and Naomi, if you ever need any volunteer (read: non-paid) help from a food journalist turned bartender turned academic, don’t hesitate to look me up.
Pascal Sauton says
I think what can beinteresting is the perception.
I agrre with whoever up there talked about Portland’s food being “world class”.
Recently, I had meals at Giorgio’s, Castagna, Alberta’s Oyster Bar that were splendid, (as well as Harvest Vine, Lark and Union in Seattle). Those restaurants didn’t cost $3 million to build and waitstaff were not in Tux or Armani Jackets and prices were below $200 per person. Without that flourish, many people have a tendancy to diminish the food. Even though the food was not as “Chi-Chi” or as creative than at Gagnaire or PerSe, it was still fantastic.
I don’t think there’s any room in Portland for a $300 per person restaurant, and it’s better that way. I like to go out without to wear the Jacket / Tie” to enjoy my evening.
Pork Cop says
I’d be happier with good Deli,Chinese,Morrocan,Indian, Afghan, African etc….Thats what I think Portlands missing. I’m perfectly content with the unpretentious mid/upper scale food choices in town.I NEVER said snobby food is GOOD food.In fact a cities/countries real food comes from the mom and pops places. Just my opinion of course.
Carlo says
Pascal Sauton, you’re absolutely right: The fact that Portland has no restaurants where you need to spend $300 a pop to get a great meal is a big plus. Come to think of it, I don’t think I’ve ever dined in a PDX restaurant where our tab has even approached $100 a person.
Last night, for example, we ate at Fenouil. We had appetizers and entrees that were all vibrant, fresh and memorable, good French cheese, magnificent bread, multiple desserts, a great bottle of Bordeaux and cocktails, and the bill came to $75 a person. (And this at a restaurant that a lot of Portlanders seem to think of as pricey.)
I can’t tell you how many dinners I’ve eaten over the years at big-name, big-city restaurants where the tab was twice as high but the experience was not nearly as great. That’s a big part of why I think Portland ranks right up there when it comes to food.
Naomi Pomeroy says
8.3.10
this is super interesting reading 4 years later..it’s like opening a time capsule. Thanks so much to all who ranted and raved (and continue to do so) it makes PDX a better place. Thank god all that splintering happened. XOXO to Bunk. To Clyde. To Pigeon. To Olympic Provisions. To Tails and Trotters Pork. It is amazing what a little shake-down break down can cause. To all the terrible seeming things, past present and future, suck it. You aren’t really terrible. You are exactly what needs to be happening.
ps. I still have the chairs at beast. and yes, they are still uncomfortable. 4 years later..
Naomi
Food Dude says
I hope it is worth all the pain you went through at the time. I know it wasn’t easy.
I’m going to start a collection to replace your chairs.
whatthef says
weirdly self congratulatory. yet not surprising. four years later.