A few months ago, the rumors of Chris Israel opening a Northern European restaurant were validated, with the announcement of Grüner, which means “greener” in German. Now comes the first official news.
The restaurant will be located at 537 SW 12th Ave, downtown. From the Grüner press-release: “Grüner is an adventure through the Alps and along the Danube River which begins in the Black Forest and ends at the Black Sea,” Israel explains. “As it passes through Germany, Austria, Hungary, and Romania, an alternate Europe emerges, with a hearty, earthier culinary tradition favoring savory, dill, caraway seeds, crème fraîche, horseradish and paprika as opposed to the more familiar southern flavors of garlic, basil, olive oil, fennel seeds and tomato. Much like the Pacific Northwest, this rich variety of cuisines is woven together by seasons and mountains and rivers.”
Grüner will have a tasting menu with items like smoked trout mousse with watercress sauce, beef short rib goulash, and shaved black radishes with sea salt and savory, along with dishes like German apple pancake, grilled quail with sour cherries, etc. A full liquor license will allow them to have a full range of cocktails, along with beer and wine to complement the cuisine.
An interesting side-note: Grüner is another project from ChefStable, the group that brought us Ping.
Now comes news of another restaurant with a similar cuisine – Spints Alehouse on the NE 28th area of Portland. It is opening at 401 NE 28th Ave, the old location of the crash and burn “401 Restaurant”. Owner Alyssa Gregg was most recently chef at Teardrop Lounge, before leaving last spring to focus on her new venture. Ted Charak, who you may remember as the affable co-owner of Teardrop, will man the bar. Catherine Cole did an Alyssa Gregg.
According to her press release, “Spints will be an alehouse featuring Northern European cuisine and eclectic blend of local and regional beers. In addition, our cocktail menu will focus on local distillers along with in-house craftsmanship. I will be acting as both owner and executive chef. The cuisine will be have its main focus on traditional German food, but have some influence from Belgium and Northern France to add some lighter fare.”
Both are hoping for a December opening.
Gloria says
I hope they’re a HUGE success!!
Rouxster says
A few years ago I had one particularly memorable meal at 23Hoyt, when Israel was still involved. I had spaetzle with rabbit and creme fraiche. it was superb and definitely fits in with the style Isreal is contemplating at Gruner. It was one of the few Portland meals I’ve had I can still perfectly remember. It sounds like such a heavy dish, but while filling it wasn’t grease laden and was well balanced.
PDX City-State says
He’s done a couple of Gruner dinners recently at the Robert Reynolds Chef Studio. One featured a version of charctoute with braised tender pork belly. His food is never over the top or showy, it’s just well executed regional cooking. Not many chefs of this stature exhibit such a light hand. So happy this is moving forward. It’s only six blocks from my house. I’ll be a fixture at the bar I’m sure.
amy says
Alyssa Gregg’s talent as a chef may have been undersold at Teardrop Lounge-where the food menu plays second fiddle to a delicious and ambitious cocktail selection. I am thrilled to learn she is venturing on her own. Spints will no doubt allow Alyssa to showcase some serious culinary skills. December can’t come fast enough!
MrDonutsu says
Yay Spints – my newest, closest restaurant!
Restohopper says
Good luck Mr. Israel, I’ve only heard good things about you, but can you please give SERVICE a special attention and not follow in the BCR long overrated tradition, please, not to mention, setting your new establishment in the likes of places in “real” cities like New York; San Francisco; Seattle; Los Angeles, etc. not only in terms of the quality of the food (coz’ that’s a given in this town) but also of knowledgeable and competent staff!