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I wasn’t going to say anything about The Oregonian’s Diner this year, but I’m getting a lot of emails, so I’ll weigh in.
- Not that I’m a great writer, but I don’t charge you to read my posts. Some of these reviews need some serious toning down; one author has such over-the-top flowery descriptions I quit reading.
- The list is much shorter this year: about 54. Last year they covered 101 restaurants.
- Most of the reviews are so brief they aren’t interesting, especially when compared to last year’s dining guide. For example, Toro Bravo. In 2009 they wrote,
“It’s a noisy, crowded storefront, and tables are not easy to come by unless you go early (how un-Spanish) or late (but don’t come at 11 — you’re not in Barcelona). Still, this slightly Americanized version of a tapas restaurant (no sawdust on the floor, no flamenco guitarist, no smoking) is well worth the wait, especially if you like to sample superb small plates. Most dishes provide ample tastes for three. You may be a bit overwhelmed by the choices, which are divided into such categories as “Pinchos” (simple tapas), “Charcuteria” (meaty appetizers) and “Tapas” (all the rest), but you’ll get ample aid from the knowledgeable servers. Lots of selections you’ve probably never had before, but adventure is definitely the game. Toro Bravo generates a buzz, and everyone is having fun here; a dinner of fast-moving plates can make that happen, but butcher-man John Gorham’s cooking, almost always on the mark, is the real force. Sit at the kitchen counter and watch him wield his sabers.
Eat and drink: The more Spanish-inflected the items, the better. While Gorham is fabled for his royal meat dishes (he’s the Prince of the Pig, the Count of the Cow), he also has a knowing way with seafood. Anchovies fried ($7) or pickled on toast with a pepper-tomato sauce ($6) are always good; ditto salt cod fritters. To test his meaty chops, order the coppa steak topped with a spicy almond sauce ($14). Eggplant with lamb ragu is another must ($10). Be sure to investigate the numerous seasonal vegetable treats, too. It hardly sounds Spanish, but the richly caramelized baked apple ($7) is a great closer. The wine list has a number of fine Spanish options and dry sherries — a quintessential match for tapas.
Bargain bin: Focus on the many dishes under $6, and be restrained.
Reality check: The policy of reservations only for seven or more, and only from Sun-Thu, makes Toro Bravo a hard table. With a huge menu of small plates (51 choices at last count), the temptation is to order a great many, and prices can mount up quickly.
And for 2010,
“From starters — slices of tender manchego cheese and spicy chorizo ($6) — to dessert — molten chocolate cake with housemade vanilla ice cream ($7) — this Northeast Portland icon still doles out surprising, Spanish-informed plates ranging from bite-sized to belt-loosening.
Not to miss: Treat the menu as the Andalucians might: bar snacks. Cool cerveza goes down best with salty fare — fried anchovies, fennel and lemon in romesco; crispy Potatoes Bravas ($7) in a tomato sauce with mayo. The bacon-wrapped date ($2), which comes sizzling in warm, paprika-infused honey, and the “French Kisses” ($2), brandy-soaked prunes stuffed with foie gras, pack a bite-sized flavor punch.”
The review last year was 374 words. This year, 154. Really? It reads like someone went with a friend, had one meal, and that was it. Some are even shorter. I’ve seen better descriptions in the back of airline magazines. For instance, the Tanuki review is worthless, the restaurant deserves better.
4. I haven’t been to Restaurant of the Year Castagna in the last six months, so I can’t comment. I do have reservations very soon. However, I think “Rising Star of the Year”, Laurelhurst Market is way overrated. I’ve been three times, never had a good meal, and had between poor and terrible service each visit. One was right after my steak roundup and had I been comparing. they would have been in the middle of the pack. I know Laurelhurst has a group of passionate followers, but the foodies I know are not among them.
5. Metrovino? One terrific meal, one lousy meal. I was amazed at the difference but chalked it up to only being open a few months.
6. The restaurants that are included/excluded. For example, Chennai Masala in Hillsboro. I dined there 2 weeks ago. It did nothing for me – years ago it was much better. There are many good restaurants that they left out. It’s like they ran out of money half-way through the guide, so quit working.
7. I’ve never heard of several of these reviewers, and they write as if they aren’t as familiar with the cuisine they are discussing.
I know they probably have a smaller budget than before, but this whole effort pales in comparison to earlier years. If this is the type of thing they will be publishing, we will all miss Ms. Brooks.
Matt Brown says
I agree. Karen had the heart of Portland as well as the skills as a writer and the knowledge of food to match. I know times are hard, but it seems as if the Oregonian has given up on all of its strongest areas (Home & Garden and the A & E included).
byron beck says
After all the lovely bon mots you’ve flung at Ms. Brooks over the years, a more fitting title for this blog post might be: “Food Dude Eats Crow.”
Food Dude says
I still believe everything I’ve written in the past (including yesterday). However, she’s a far better editor than whoever is doing it now. Maybe they should give it to Martha Holmberg. She’s a good editor.
CO says
yeah, the whole damn thing reads like it was written by a 3rd grader transcribing what a cage of drunken parrots are saying! Hyperbole,yes, but it was pretty terrible.
Yes, Tanuki got the shaft….price range $11-$20?? I have only once seen an item over $12(the “pork shank redemption” an entire damn pork shank!?!?!) once, and almost always every food item(I say item because the Oregonian defines them as entrees and Tanuki has no “entrees”) on the menu is under $10. It’s fairly obvious the first people they purged at the O were their fact checkers! I guess they should fell lucky they got the contact info right!
As far as Laurelhurst goes, Food Dude, you and I have polar opposite track records with it! I have yet to have either bad(not busy/slammed/deep-in-the-weeds)service or a bad meal. Some items better than others? Sure. But all in all, top-4 in town cocktails, well priced and curated wine list, unbelievable prices on some outstanding food. I can understand not thinking it’s in the top5 restaurants on Portland….but out and out bad? sorry, you’re just wrong.
sidemeat says
sign of time dude. words, fewer. restaurants, less (maybe, no time to count)posts on site me&u
lol! gotta go, some1 tweeting…
doza says
Do not miss Karen Brooks. She was worth replacing, but perhaps you are right… not by her replacement.
Jevan says
Don’t you think Laurelhurst Market benifits from what I call the SouthWest Airlines effect? Compared to the “big boys” in the meat “game”, they are percived as a better value, and thus people have lower expectations.
reduxredux says
I have a hard time taking newspaper food reviewing seriously. I get up to date food reviews from multiple wonderful viewpoints here and at portlandfood.org every day, a lot of which contain detailed descriptions and even pictures of all of the dishes. The newspaper reviewers may have some credentials and experience reviewing but so do half of the people posting on the Portland food blogs.
Nancy Rommelmann says
The thing I missed in Diner 2010 was talk about restaurants we haven’t hear about, and the ferreting out of places far afield. Aside from the mentions of a few in the outskirts, I’d been to every restaurant they mentioned but two. And we don’t go out that much! I really wanted to learn about new or hidden or under-reported spots, not just the usual suspects.
wine&dine says
YES!!
Good Food For Me says
Since Laurelhurst Market has a four page spread in Mix – are you really that surprised? An interesting note in that article in Mix says that tenderloin is $30 a pound – yeah – really – where? Oh please!
JasonC says
I wrote the MIX article, and while you’re probably right about the tenderloin hyperbole, it’s certainly intoxicating to learn that a story I conceived and pitched 11 months ago, without even being a current Portland resident, had such a powerful impact…
DinahDavis says
I’ve often thought that who got mentioned in the Oregonian’s diner section had a lot to do with who was spending the advertising dollars.
I had a so-so experience at Laurelhurst Market; the “steak special” (cheaper than most of the cuts, but not all that cheap) had a weird sauce on it that left an odd, sweet aftertaste. It did not work well with the steak. The service was fine, but the seating arrangements were cramped.
We had the misfortune of sitting next to Loud Woman, who had one of those annoying, brassy voices. She Would Not Shut Up. That may have dampened the experience a bit.
wine&dine says
Have had better fish dinners than steak. Agree the sauce on the meat is not complimentary.
The better cuts were not up to the price being charged, then again most of us have had to shift
our taste buds to a ‘cleaner’ meat taste. Seeing as we were raised on hormone and antibiotic laced meat, maybe
we don’t know what good meat is anymore??
Hard to find a great steak anymore.
Jill-O says
I’ve had a lot of meals at Laurelhurst Market and I haven’t had a bad experience at all – great food, great service, great drinks. Weekdays, weekends, early, late, etc. – I have only had great experiences there. It kind of shocks me to hear that folks have had the opposite experience, especially so many of them.
Tass says
I agree The O’s Diner was underwhelming on all fronts. Typically I save The O’s guide, as well as WW’s to get inspiration throughout the year but will toss The O’s this year. First, it was buried in the paper amongst a bunch of trashy circular ads, I couldn’t find it the first couple of times I flipped through – the rest of it (paper quality, design, ads, content, etc) were equally underwhelming.
pdxyogi says
Missed it too, and am now relieved it was no loss.
Nancy Rommelmann says
What Jill-O said about Laurelhurst. That said, I also am not wacky about the sauce that comes with the steak frites; the meat it so good, it detracts rather than adds. But that’s a small thing and I don’t need to eat it. The drinks and bartenders are fabulous; ditto the meat and salads, at least for me and mine.
homer's son says
I’m finding it harder and harder to justify a buck for a copy of the Oregonian off the newstand. The restaurant guide was underwhelming and those full-page “cash for gold” ads look so cheesy. Would someone buy me an ipad so I can have something to read during lunch?
John E says
I was in newspaper publishing years ago. This section is designed as a moneymaker, nothing more. Use cheap paper, gather the information as a reporter not a reviewer (assess what we and others have said about places) slap it together. It should have had “product of the advertising department” across the top.
Portland Food Adventures says
Of course it’s related to your point above, but I hadn’t even seen Diner yet, since I canceled my Oregonian subscription months ago. Many have, according to circulation numbers, which is why the few readers who remain are getting served such apparent budget-saving schlock.
I haven’t agreed with Karen in the past on a number of fronts (and have discussed with her), but at least the section was worth reading.
There are other sources, including this site. Food Dude has provided an excellent mouth-watering source.. no need for The Oregonian (and what’s left of the food column can be accessed online. Sarasohn does decent reviews when he’s not covering politics)
Bruce says
For the first time, this year’s Diner was produced by the Oregonian’s Advertising Department, not by the News Department. That should explain why it’s so lousy.
JDG says
FD —
Having just had another excellent meal at Laurelhurst Market tonight, I urge you to do the following tomorrow: pay them a visit early, order the Tombo Tuna Crudo and the House-made Mozzarella — I think it will be $15 for these two starters — and tell me that these dishes are not on par with some of the best places in town.
Food Dude says
I tried to go there a few nights ago when Ned Ludd was closed, but couldn’t talk any of my group into it. Maybe I’ll wander in myself some night.
I thought LM was all about the meat? Even the O steers people away from the fish
polloelastico says
Had the tombo tuna crudo with ice lettuce that JDG mentioned last night as well. Excellent. Beef tartare was good. Bavette with romesco and arugula was perfectly med rare. Skirt steak with grilled scallions and cherry tomatoes was fantastic.