In an article in the Saturday Wall Street Journal, Kenny & Zuke’s Deli was highlighted as one of 5 in the nation, that are bringing the terms “local”, “organic” and “artisanal” back to the scene. Owner Ken Gordon’s take? “What we’re doing is what delis 50 to 100 years ago used to do”.
Instead of ordering their offerings in bulk from food processors, these delis are crafting them in small batches. In Portland, Ore., Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen bakes organic rye bread, smokes and steams briskets from beef sourced from within 100 miles to make pastrami, and cures wild local salmon for lox. Mile End Delicatessen in Brooklyn, which opened last year, serves handmade Montreal bagels—smaller, sweeter and denser than the fluffy behemoths that often masquerade as bagels these days.
Kenny & Zuke’s was highlighted as “Perfect Pastrami in Portland, Ore.
True to local foodie culture, at Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen all breads—rye, challah, bagels, hamburger buns—are made in-house with organic flour; each week 2,000 pounds of beef brisket is cured, smoked and steamed to make pastrami. “I resisted doing bacon and pork in a deli,” said owner Ken Gordon. But eventually, he caved to popular demand. “What, am I going to go to heaven if I don’t serve bacon?”
Signature Nosh: The pastrami reuben, with 7 ounces of hand-sliced pastrami, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing and sauerkraut on homemade rye, buttered and toasted in a sandwich press. 1038 S.W. Stark St., kennyandzukes.com
The article is fun, and highlights four other deli’s around the nation. You can read it here. [membership required]