Chef Musical Chairs: Troy McLarty left Hula Hands in April of this year and spent some time as part of the Laurelhurst Market team. Now comes word that he has left Laurelhurst Market for Ned Ludd.
From my review when he was chef at Lovely Hula Hands,
Troy MacLarty worked at at Alice Water’s famed Chez Panisse in Berkeley, before being lured to Portland by the much maligned Michael Hebberoy. As things began to melt down in the Hebberoy empire, he left, reappearing later at Simpatica, and finally at Lovely Hula Hands which had just moved into a much larger space. Under his capable hands, LHH rose to to the point where it was my Restaurant of the Year for 2007. In my last review I wrote, “Salads are inspired and perfectly executed; in my opinion, some of the best in the city. On my second visit I had the radicchio with pear butter vinaigrette, brie, and glistening candied pecans. It was like a brie butter fog had settled over the leaves. I wanted to lie down in it. This was an exceptional effort that shows just how much you can do with a salad.” To this day, I think it’s the best salad I’ve ever had.
I’ve never been thrilled with the food at Ned Ludd, and am greatly encouraged to hear he will be heading over there. As a master of salads, and now with even more experience at Laurelhurst, this is great news.