Quoth the Food Dude, “Nevermore!”

RavenMaking Tonic Water from Scratch, Part II [Note: Part I is here]

The next day I woke with new energy and determination, and fairly bounded into the kitchen, wondering if I had enough ingredients for a second batch of tonic. My socks stuck firmly to the floor with every step, a footprint of fuzz left behind. Undaunted, I forged ahead. You’d think I would have learned the first time, but then I am a fairly typical male. I made the syrup and added the ingredients. Once again, I propped the sieve handles on old spice bottles, and went back to cleaning the floor for the tenth time. This time it was the mop handle that knocked everything over. At about the same time, someone came to the door. I’d completely forgotten building maintenance was coming to inspect the patio door seals. Here I was – standing in my boxers, bed-head, with funnels, beakers, and flasks of acrid brown fluid dripping away, a pool of the same expanding across the floor, a strange sweet, chemical smell filling the air. I could tell by the look on their faces that they thought I was running a drug lab – Breaking Bad come to life.

Sometime during the futile scrubbing process to get the spilled syrup off my floor, a poem by Edgar Allan Poe started running through my head. The Raven. You know it? I hadn’t heard it since college, but the words came flashing back, and as I scrubbed, anger building, the phrases running over and over, I modified it in my mind:

Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered weak and weary,
Over many a quaint and curious volume of foodie lore,
While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping
As of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.
‘Tis some visitor,’ Food Dude muttered, ‘tapping at my chamber door -
Only this and nothing more.’ 

Deep into that darkness peering, long I stood there wondering, fearing
Doubting, dreaming dreams no chef e’er dared to dream before.
But the silence was unbroken, and the stillness gave no token
Plastic bag of quinine broken, just beside my hallway door.
Spilling dust upon my carpet, on my musty hallway floor,
Only this and nothing more. 

Back into my condo turning, all my soul within me burning,
Soon I heard my Tanquery calling somewhat louder than before.
‘Surely,’ said I, ‘surely few ingredients pose no challenge;
Let me see then, what we have here and this recipe explore -
Let my heart be still a moment and this recipe explore; -
Six ingredients, and nothing more!’ 

Hours later, muscles crying, filters filtering, fines undying,
Sticky counters pulling, quinine in my kitchen drawer.
As I stood there emptying cones, feeling pain within my bones,
Patience flagging, body sagging, reading tonic lore,
Fatigue I could ignore no more, recipe no guarantor
All this trouble, and nothing more. 

At that moment, mind a-napping, arms so weary, elbows flapping
On the counter, sweet and lovely; sticky tonic poured.
As I stood there, locked in fear, grasping all the tonic near,
And the only word there spoken was the whispered word, ‘tonic’
This I whispered, and an echo murmured back the word, ‘tonic’
Merely this and nothing more. 

And my tonic, always filtering, still is dripping, ever filtering
On the tiny space it’s dripping just above my oven door;
And its sugar tendrils reaching like a demon, always reaching,
And the oven-light o’er streaming throws its shadow on the floor;
And my floor from out that syrup that lies floating by the door -
Shall be sticky – evermore. 

[With apologies to the spirit of Poe] 

I finally finished the tonic.  Filtering took two days, but when it was finally complete, it poured like beautiful thin honey. The gin and tonics were wonderful, friends raved. It took almost a week before I stopped sticking to things in the kitchen. Despite my bitter feelings for my bitter tonic, I’ve made it several more times.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass

Here is the recipe from the Mar/April 2007 issue of Imbibe Magazine:

  • 4 cups of water
  • 3 cups pure cane sugar
  • 3 Tbsp quinine (powdered cinchona bark)
  • 6 Tbsp. powdered citric acid – check bulk bins at grocery stores
  • 3 limes – zested and juiced
  • 3 stalks lemongrass, roughly chopped

Make a simple syrup by bringing the sugar and water to a boil until the sugar dissolves. Turn heat to low.

Add quinine, citric acid, lemongrass, lime zest and lime juice. Stir and simmer for 25 mins. Powder should be dissolved and syrup thin.

Remove from heat and cool. Strain out any large chunks, then filter through cheesecloth or coffee filters to refine. This can take quite a bit of time and many filters. It helps to let the mix stand over night in the refrigerator to settle out some of the fines, and then carefully pour the liquid off of the top.

Pour into sterilized glass bottles, cover and store in refrigerator. It will keep at least two weeks.

To make your drink, use the following proportions:

  • 1/2 oz. tonic syrup
  • 1 1/2 oz. gin
  • Splash of soda water
  • Lime wedge
  • Ice cubes
  • Glass: double rocks
  • Garnish: lime twist, or drop the lime wedge in the drink

Cocktail gin & tonic - shutterstockI’ve now made the tonic at least a dozen times – when friends taste it, I end up giving them the bottle and have to make it again. Each time I look for shortcuts, many which are mentioned here. Most obviously is a centrifuge, which to my mind might work, but hey, food dude can’t afford these types of things. Even more importantly, I have doubts as to whether the stickiness of the simple syrup would allow it to work properly.

1. With a bit of testing, it became obvious that the simple syrup mixed with quinine bark is what really slows the filtering. I made concentrate of the herbal ingredients, filtered it separately, and then added it to the simple syrup. This worked well, and I was able to cut the entire process to a couple of hours, but I found the tonic didn’t stay in suspension as well as it should. One has to keep stirring the drink, which waters it down. It also left a bit of an edge to the drink, that didn’t mellow over time. Being a purist, this was unacceptable, but in a pinch…

2. Kevin Ludwig suggested that I make the tonic according to his recipe, and let it settle out for five days or so before filtering. Most of the sediment settles out into a gluey mass at the bottom of the jar. If you pour it off carefully and then do the filtering, it is much easier. The tonic also mellows a bit during the process. I think this is the best solution so far, though the filtering is still a bit of a pain. Then there is the issue of me needing instant gratification, and waiting five days for a drink doesn’t fit into my agenda. Note: fast forward to 2013. I now make it this way every time.

3. In my humble opinion, this tonic is lousy when paired with vodka. Save it for a good gin. The NY Times did a huge gin tasting a few weeks ago called “No, Really, It Was Tough: 4 People, 80 Martinis“. Plymouth English Gin won, but I think it would be a bit too smooth here. I’d go with one of these:

The Junipero, made in small quantities by the distilling branch of the Anchor brewery in San Francisco, came on strong with the traditional gin flavors of juniper and citrus, hitting all the right notes, though a little self-consciously.

The No. 3 gin, Cadenhead’s Old Raj from Scotland, at 110 proof, or 55 percent alcohol, was by far the most powerful gin we tasted: Tanqueray and Tanqueray No. 10 at 94.6 proof were the next highest. But while Old Raj packed a punch, its muscularity came across as bright and in control.

Two standbys of the American cocktail cabinet fared well as martinis. Seagram’s Extra Dry came in at No. 4. We found it surprisingly complex in the glass, with fruit, herbal and gingery spice notes, yet it didn’t stray far from the gin ideal, while Gordon’s London Dry adhered to the straight and narrow, with a slight emphasis of spicy cardamom and nutmeg aromas.

If you try to make the tonic, I’d love to hear how it goes.

Your thoughts are welcome

  1. Lynn D. says

    This is hilarious. It reminds me of James Villas’ “I Made my own Wine” in a collection caled American Taste, except that his finished product did not turn out so well.

  2. Roger says

    I enjoyed the story. Nothing you said discouraged me from wanting to try it. Send me your shortcuts and I’ll try it.

  3. AspiringFoodie says

    Food Dude. Long time lurker, first time poster. And you don’t even have to put this on the site if you don’t want. Just have to say I’ve always loved your reviews, but this little tale — and poem! — has earned you a fan club member. You can certainly turn a phrase and I write for a living so I should know Just wanted to say so.

  4. Food Dude says

    I’ll write up my shortcuts and whatnot this weekend and post here in the comments. Have actually gotten it down to two hours, though it doesn’t stay in suspension quite as well as the original recipe. I say, give them a swizzle stick! (does anyone use swizzle sticks anymore?)

    Jeff, I gave the concierge a bottle of tonic. Issue vanished.

  5. Sir Loins says

    I use swizzle sticks! – a lot, actually, and not just for booze. As a matter of fact, I got some really cool old glass ones at a thrift store back when the lounge/swing revival hit the skids.

    I am really looking forward to the tonic recipe and shortcuts. I made a huge batch of some ridiculously involved liqueur from all these exotic fruits and spices once. ‘Bout time I made a big, sticky mess in the kitchen again.

  6. kevinludwig says

    Instead of filtering immeadiately after cooking, I find it best to pour the whole mess into a wide bottomed jar (like an old marachino cherry jar) and stick it in the fridge for a day or two. The bark will settle out and solidify in the bottom of the jar and then just running it through a plain old metal strainer will get rid of any chunks. It also gains a little more flavor from the increased steeping.

  7. LadyConcierge says

    Wow, from the mouth of the master himself!

    Food Dude, I wish you lived in my building. A bottle of homemade tonic makes lots go away! Thinking about moving to the Meriwether anytime soon?

  8. says

    Here’s a little hint for you, Dude! Dont add the sugar in the first step as the recipe states. Boil the 4 cups of water with your ingredients, then strain. Things will go a lot faster this way, and all you have to do in the last step is reheat the liquid and add the sugar.

    Great poem, by the way…

    Cheers!

  9. mr. stripey says

    so, i hear that patience is a virtue, but FOODDUDE, i need shortcuts. what’s the secret to the easy (er) recipe for tonic water?
    thanks a million, in advance.

  10. triq says

    Food Dude…and/or Mr. Ludwig…
    could I get the actual recipe to attempt my own descent??
    I live on the east coast, so I don’t have access to the magazine or article!

  11. DAVE says

    Hi .Just read your attempts at making Tonic and have to say I really enjoyed
    it.Thank you for making a dull day a smiling one(and odd belly laugh when imagination in gear at visions of all the sieves et),
    Please would you send me any shotcuts you found.
    Thanks again

  12. Alanna says

    Hi Food Dude!

    First of all, um, I love you.

    Ok, with that out of the way, I just published a recipe (based on yours) for tonic on my blog. I had some lemon balm from my CSA, so I threw that in as well. Yum! This stuff rocks. Maybe you’re on this already, but I found pieces of cinchona bark, rather than powder, at a shop here in San Francisco. No tricky straining required! Thanks a million for this article – it has been extremely helpful!

    • Food Dude says

      Well… um… blush. I think everyone should click on the bojongourmet.com link.

      Thanks for the tip!

  13. Plymouth says

    I found the same Imbibe article and tried my hand at tonic syrup for the first time a few months ago. I found cinchona bark at an herb and spice shop in the mission in San Francisco and fortunately managed to buy just a couple of ounces (enough for maybe 3 batches). It was, however, in whole chunks not powder so I had to grind it in my spice grinder. The chunks kept catching in the blades but eventually I got it fairly well powdered.

    I found that 6 tbsp of citric acid was WAY WAY WAY too much. It was mouth-puckeringly sour. I added more sugar syrup, which made it drinkable but diluted the quinine flavor too much. We managed to drink our way through it, but it wasn’t pleasant – half the time I was mixing it with Schweppes tonic to make it tolerable. The second batch I made I used ONE tablespoon of Cirtic acid and that was about right & finally made it feel like it was worth the effort.

    I still have half of it in my freezer waiting to be filtered because, yes, the filtration process is incredibly arduous. I discovered that the best way is actually to use the giant cafeteria size filters in a flat-bottomed steamer, which maximizes the surface area of the filter to absorb particles. Still takes a bloody long time though!

    • says

      I am wondering if it might have been so sour because you had to grind it yourself. Tonic is supposed to be sour, but not that sour, and I’ve never had a problem with mine. You might try mail ordering some next time.

      Thanks for the tip on the filtration!

  14. Naomi says

    I laughed so hard! I had just found the same recipe you mentioned and was mulling over how hard it could be. When I read your article, I couldn’t stop laughing because I would have done the same exact thing! Thank you for saving me the humiliation of trying to explain sticky floors to my roommate!

  15. Peter Roscoe says

    “It Must Have Been Something I Drank!” lol….great story..reminiscent of Jeffrey whatever his name is’s books from a few years back. The end result sounds great, but the getting there is all the fun, especially when it goes a little wrong.

  16. Susan says

    I’m Kevin’s mom. He encourages me to make this concoction but I’m waiting for a six pack to arrive in the mail! Maybe this Christmas. Happy Thanksgiving Food Dude. I always enjoy your stories!

    • says

      It is available on the internet from Raintreee. I’ve also seen it at a spice shop in Sellwood. There are several shops, but I think “Stone Cottage” at 8609 SE 17th Ave has it by the scoop. Call first to make sure I’ve got the correct store.

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