Note: This restaurant closed on January 3, 2011. This review was written in 2009. Fugue - Music: a composition based on multiple themes, which are enunciated by several voices or parts in turn, and gradually built up into a complex form having somewhat distinct divisions or stages of development and a marked climax at the end. For those who have been reading my reviews … [Read more...] about Review: Ten 01
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We Host a Miracle Fruit Party!
What Happens When You Invite a Group of Close Friends for Miracle Fruit and Alcohol? I don't have parties very often; it takes a major event in my life before I throw open the doors to more than a few people. That's why a group of my foodie friends were surprised to get an invitation to a last-minute gathering at my house a few weeks ago. Even more surprising was what a … [Read more...] about We Host a Miracle Fruit Party!
Review: Spella Caffe
By guest writer Axel Benjamin Coffee Roaster Andrea Spella tells me over my morning cappuccino that he developed his love for coffee when he was just a kid. [Updated: Spella Caffe now has a brick and mortar location at 520 SW 5TH Ave. You'll find a new review of Spella here.] Growing up in a second-story apartment above a bakery in Chicago, Spella's Italian-American … [Read more...] about Review: Spella Caffe
What Does Cheese Mean?
A certain euro-centrism reigns in cheese appreciation circles. When I think of good cheese (really good cheese), what immediately comes to mind is an imaginary French or Italian sheep’s milk gem crafted from the milk of herds grazing in the Alps. On some level, there’s a logic to this; European cheese-making is a centuries-old tradition that produces some of the world’s great … [Read more...] about What Does Cheese Mean?
Interview: Morgan Brownlow
Since returning to Portland in 2002, Morgan Brownlow has seen his star rise higher, faster, than any local chef in recent memory. After two years with Ripe and Family Supper, he became partner and founding chef at Clarklewis, which won the Oregonian's Restaurant of the Year for 2004, barely three months after it opened. More, according to his peers, when Brownlow is on, he is … [Read more...] about Interview: Morgan Brownlow
Interview: Troy MacClarty
After training at the Culinary Institute of America, and spending four years at Chez Panisse, Troy MacLarty landed in Portland, as chef of Family Supper, a job he left in late 2005. After stints at Simpatica and Saucebox, in November 2006, he took over as chef at Lovely Hula Hands, when it debuted at its new North Mississippi location. As cooks prepped dinner in the … [Read more...] about Interview: Troy MacClarty
Interview: Erin-Marie Palmer of Shaker and Vine
Erin-Marie Palmer was the owner of The Wine Cellar in Beaverton as well as Shaker and Vine in Portland [ed 2016 - now closed]. Palmer is best described as a feisty, well-spoken local wine expert who has no qualms about expressing her preferences for what makes a great glass of vino. Shaker and Vine is a quirky, hip reflection of this passion set in what is otherwise a very … [Read more...] about Interview: Erin-Marie Palmer of Shaker and Vine
A James Beard House Dinner or My Quest for Quail Eggs, Tamarind Paste and Banana Leaves
By Ken Collura For those of you who don’t know who James Beard was, here’s a quick explanation: James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon in the early 1900’s. His desire was to be in the theater in his early years, but failing in that endeavor, he turned to a passion he had gained from his family - food and cooking. It became apparent that he had a distinct ability to write … [Read more...] about A James Beard House Dinner or My Quest for Quail Eggs, Tamarind Paste and Banana Leaves